<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large">Bought my car 41 years ago for $500.00. Needed a complete engine and tranny rebuild. Most of the interior was rotten.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large">A women cut me off and stopped in 1980 crushing the whole front end. $350.00 later I bought a donor car with rusted floors and fenders and transplanted the drivetrain, wire harness and suspension. The one that got away was a $850.00 2 seat tri -carb 3000! that ran with factory hardtop.</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br clear="all"><div><div class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div>Ira Erbs<br>Portland, OR<br> _______ _______<br> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br> (_________________________)<br></div></div></div></div></div></div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Oct 23, 2015 at 6:40 AM, J. Armour <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:sebring3000@bigpond.com" target="_blank">sebring3000@bigpond.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Simon<br>
10 out of 10 for that story. It is a pity more current owners have not had<br>
the same 'school of hard knocks' introduction to their Healey.I believe it<br>
gives you a greater understanding and appreciation of what we can have<br>
today.<br>
I remember crawling under Austin sedans with the snakes and spiders to<br>
retrieve compatiable spares for my BN.4 in 1966 - ie a gearbox when the<br>
sedan was sitting on 4 flat tyres!!! The only source of bodywork spares<br>
was the odd wrecking yard.<br>
Today, lookup the internet, add a credit card and wait a few days.<br>
The positive of all this is that an early education meant we were able to<br>
get some of the rare and good cars before others realised their value.<br>
Australia had a very good number of ex-works cars, 100.s and prototype<br>
Healeys before they started to be sold back overseas.<br>
My first old Healey was 8 years old. Newer than my current family<br>
sedan!!!!!!!!<br>
<br>
Joe<br>
<br>
On 24/10/15 12:12 AM, "Healeys on behalf of Simon Lachlan"<br>
<<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a> on behalf of <a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>><br>
wrote:<br>
<br>
>Kees,<br>
>Frightening that your AH was totally rotten after 10 years or so.<br>
>I had a MkII BT7 when I was a student, so that's approx 45 years ago. I<br>
>can't remember exactly when I bought it; let's say 1970. So, it wasn't<br>
>even<br>
>10 years old. That car was in worse condition then than my current MkII<br>
>BT7<br>
>is now and it is not a concours car. Not at all.<br>
>Regarding the first car, some clown had stuck plywood over the dash to<br>
>ape a<br>
>BJ7 or 8 dash. I was at Trinity College Dublin. In those days, one had to<br>
>pay a very considerable import duty on imported parts which I couldn't<br>
>really afford. I do recall carrying(!!!) a hardtop over on the Liverpool<br>
>ferry. The customs guys stopped me on arrival; I told them that the top<br>
>was<br>
>for a cut down Mini special that was originally locally made. (Quite a few<br>
>cars were assembled (CKD?) in Ireland in those days. Including Minis. At<br>
>Rathmines in Dublin of all places.) I got through; I doubt that they<br>
>believed me, just they gave me credit for a good fib.<br>
>The car was Colorado red over matt(!) black. The top was some after-market<br>
>purplish crimson. A complete dog's breakfast.<br>
>Enough,<br>
>Simon<br>
><br>
>-----Original Message-----<br>
>From: Healeys [mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of<br>
>Oudesluys<br>
>Sent: Friday, October 23, 2015 13:23<br>
>To: Bob Haskell; <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension bushings - tangent<br>
><br>
>Bob,<br>
><br>
>Many more or less performance cars and a fair amount of FWD cars have a<br>
>stabiliser bar/tie rod or even a proper shock absorber to limit and/or<br>
>damp<br>
>torsional movement/vibration (Mini, Jensen Healey). Most of the time<br>
>though<br>
>this torsional movement is adequately dealt with by engine mountings that<br>
>are spaced sufficiently wide apart.<br>
>The gearbox mountings will only help if the rubber blocks on the<br>
>extensions<br>
>are spaced wide enough.<br>
>I cannot remember if that is the case on the AH's. To long ago (1965/6)<br>
>that<br>
>I owned one for a very short time. I think it was a 1954 or 1955 car<br>
>bought<br>
>for less than $100. Totally rotten.<br>
><br>
>Cheers,<br>
>Kees Oudesluijs<br>
><br>
><br>
>Op 23-10-2015 om 13:09 schreef Bob Haskell:<br>
>> Kees,<br>
>><br>
>> As mentioned the tie rod limits the fore/aft motion of the<br>
>> engine/gearbox assembly. The gearbox mounting also includes a bracket<br>
>> with a rubber block on the left and right sides of the OD or gearbox<br>
>> extension (torsional) and a rubber bumper on the bottom side for the<br>
>> downward motion.<br>
>><br>
>> Cheers,<br>
>><br>
>> Bob Haskell<br>
>> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar<br>
>> <a href="http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php</a><br>
>><br>
>> On 10/23/2015 06:32 AM, Oudesluys wrote:<br>
>>> I did not realise that the tie rod was orientated front/rear. In that<br>
>>> case you are absolutely right.<br>
>>> These rods are more usually used to prevent torsional movement of the<br>
>>> engine to keep clutch judder (amongst others) in control. I those<br>
>>> cases I would go for rubber bushes.<br>
>>> Kees Oudesluijs<br>
>>><br>
>>><br>
>>><br>
>>> Op 23-10-2015 om 4:27 schreef WILLIAM B LAWRENCE:<br>
>>>> I think I disagree. The main purpose of the tie rod is to keep the<br>
>>>> engine from shifting forward and damaging the radiator. It has very<br>
>>>> little function as a shock absorber. Its orientation to the engine<br>
>>>> center line means there is little vibration in that direction. On<br>
>>>> the other hand the rubber bushings fail very quickly on exposure to<br>
>>>> oil and water. if the bushings fail and allow the engine to move<br>
>>>> forward under braking it can do some substantial damage. I think<br>
>>>> Austin probably would have used a more durable material in that<br>
>>>> place if one had been available (and economic). My car is not<br>
>>>> concours and never will be so my emphasis is going to be on<br>
>>>> durability. I'm definitely going to urethane for this application.<br>
>>>><br>
>>>> Bill Lawrence<br>
>>>><br>
>>>> > To: <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
>>>> > From: <a href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a><br>
>>>> > Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 12:14:23 +0200<br>
>>>> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension bushings - tangent<br>
>>>> ><br>
>>>> > I do not think so as this also has to work as a vibration damper<br>
>>>> > and rubber is better in that respect than PU. Perhaps you can fit<br>
>>>> > a<br>
>>>> sleeve<br>
>>>> > around it to protect it from oil.<br>
>>>> > Kees Oudesluijs<br>
>>>> ><br>
>>>> ><br>
>>>> > Op 22-10-2015 om 12:04 schreef Bob Haskell:<br>
>>>> > > Larry and Michael,<br>
>>>> > ><br>
>>>> > > Would you use urethane bushings for the engine tie rod<br>
>>>> > > (lower/rear gearbox/OD mount)? Urethane doesn't deteriorate like<br>
>>>> > > rubber when<br>
>>>> oil<br>
>>>> > > soaked. But it doesn't absorb as much shock loading either.<br>
>>>> > ><br>
>>>> > > Cheers,<br>
>>>> > ><br>
>>>> > > Bob Haskell<br>
>>>> > > AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar<br>
>>>> > > <a href="http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php</a><br>
>>>> > ><br>
>>>> > > On 10/22/2015 04:04 AM, Larry Varley wrote:<br>
>>>> > >> Absolutely agree with Michael here, from past experience I<br>
>>>> > >> would completely avoid urethane for any car to replace original<br>
>>>> > >> rubber<br>
>>>> bushes.<br>
>>>> > >> Its a pity that the correct rubber bushes are not made, but I<br>
>>>> would<br>
>>>> > >> still use the reproductions rather than urethane. From an<br>
>>>> engineering<br>
>>>> > >> standpoint urethane has a totally different way of operating to<br>
>>>> what the<br>
>>>> > >> car was originally designed for, stretching rubber fixed<br>
>>>> > >> against<br>
>>>> steel<br>
>>>> > >> surfaces is not the same as rotating urethane on a pin. Has<br>
>>>> anyone ever<br>
>>>> > >> asked any of the urethane bush manufacturers if their products<br>
>>>> > >> are approved by current auto manufacturers, or if they will<br>
>>>> > >> accept<br>
>>>> liability<br>
>>>> > >> for any damage they will cause? I would prefer to stay with a<br>
>>>> product<br>
>>>> > >> that is as close as possible to the original specification. In<br>
>>>> closing,<br>
>>>> > >> enlighten me, do any current auto manufacturers use urethane as<br>
>>>> their<br>
>>>> > >> standard suspension bush?<br>
>>>> > >> Cheers<br>
>>>> > >> Larry Varley<br>
>>>> > >><br>
>>>> > >> On 22/10/2015 7:08 AM, Michael Salter wrote:<br>
>>>> > >>> Bob,<br>
>>>> > >>> I suspect that I'm not telling you anything that you don't<br>
>>>> already<br>
>>>> > >>> know here BUT:<br>
>>>> > >>> I think the critical point is that the original suspension<br>
>>>> bushes work<br>
>>>> > >>> in the same way that rubber engine mounts are designed to<br>
>>>> work. The<br>
>>>> > >>> steel mounting plates (or in the case of mounts steel tubes)<br>
>>>> > >>> are rigidly attached to parts that move relative to each other<br>
>>>> > >>> and<br>
>>>> that<br>
>>>> > >>> movement is accommodated by the flexing of the rubber medium<br>
>>>> bonded to<br>
>>>> > >>> each plate.<br>
>>>> > >>> The plastic bushes work more like bearings in that the<br>
>>>> > >>> rotational movement is accommodated by rotation of the bolt<br>
>>>> > >>> (shaft)<br>
>>>> within the<br>
>>>> > >>> bush (bearing). All very well while you are flying straight<br>
>>>> > >>> and<br>
>>>> level.<br>
>>>> > >>> The problem, as I see it, is that when angular displacement is<br>
>>>> > >>> required, as in body roll, the plastic bushes must distort and<br>
>>>> as the<br>
>>>> > >>> plastic is by necessity relatively rigid, when compared to the<br>
>>>> > >>> original rubber, the loads imparted to the mounting points<br>
>>>> will be<br>
>>>> > >>> substantially higher than that for which they were designed.<br>
>>>> > >>> Maybe you will get away with it, maybe you won't., I just<br>
>>>> don't want<br>
>>>> > >>> to be passing you in the opposite direction if you don't!!!!<br>
>>>> > >>> Michael S<br>
>>>> > >>> BN1 #174 (All rubber bushes :-))<br>
>>>> > >>><br>
>>>> > >><br>
>>>> > >><br>
>>>> > >><br>
>>>> > >> _______________________________________________<br>
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>>>> t<br>
>>>> > >><br>
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>>>> > > .nl<br>
>>>> > ><br>
>>>> > ><br>
>>>> > ><br>
>>>> > > -----<br>
>>>> > > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
>>>> > > Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a href="http://www.avg.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.avg.com</a><br>
>>>> > > Versie: 2015.0.6172 / Virusdatabase: 4450/10869 - datum van<br>
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>>>> > > 10/22/15<br>
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>>>><br>
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