[Healeys] Splines and Wheels

[Michael Salter]

Hi Roger,
If you read the original Rudge-Whitworth patent on the spline drive wheels
you will note that there was a need for clearance in the splines to allow
the self tightening function to work.
I suspect that the play that you are noticing is actually part of the
design.

Michael S
BN1 3174

On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 2:28 PM, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:

> Resolution. Sort of ... mmmm
> Now installed 2 new spinners.
> Note that the new ones were 0.75 mm deeper than the old ones.
> So now have new wheels, hub splines and spinners.
> Yes, there is some improvement but have to still slog harder than I think
> that I should have to.
> Have decided to live with it and keep an eye on early wear on the splines.
> To my mind the only other thing is the machining tolerance of the hub
> splines from the different suppliers. Reluctant to make a costly science
> project out of it at this stage. Do not think that it is the wheel splines
> as MWS say they manufacture them in 1000 piece batches.
>
> However one thing that still baffles me is the fitment of the
> wheels/splines.
> I cant help thinking of typical drive shaft type spline joints; there is
> no free play and little wear.
> So question is how does tightening the spinner reduce the play between the
> splines ??
> Or does it ? Is there always some free play in the splines and this is
> what causes the wear ?
> My thinking is that the 60 deg. taper on hub and wheel play a larger part
> in torque transmission than we think.
>
> Any ideas ??
> rg
>
>
> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, November 2, 2015 10:41 AM
> *To:* Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
> *Cc:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Splines and Wheels
>
> Hi Roger,
> I have encountered that problem myself with new wheels and splines. so you
> are not alone. What was most confusing was that after tightening fully and
> removing the KO nut the wheel pulled off the spline easily so my theory
> about slight interference on the spline did not hold water.
> Never really found a cause and it went away after the wheels were run on
> the road for a while after which the KO nut would spin on by hand and
> require about 1/2 a turn of tightening
> Please let me know if you figure out the cause..
> BTW good video about making wire wheels here.
> http://cara.co.id/2015/06/how-to-make-wire-wheels/
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Mon, Nov 2, 2015 at 12:47 PM, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>
>> I have just installed new MWS  5.5in 72 spoke wheels and new Moss (USA
>> made) splined hubs on the rear of my BJ8. Also fitted new turret lug nuts.
>> I am not happy with the fitment as have to hammer the hell out of the
>> spinner to take up the peripheral play in the wheels.
>> What gives ? Spoken to both MWS and Moss and they are at a loss.
>> I can confirm that the hub mounting studs are not touching the inside of
>> the wheel and that the spinners are not bottoming.
>> Switched front to back spinners and no change.
>> Spinner thread ID seems to be within spec. at 2.194 in
>> Now thinking about new spinners .. ?? Are there perhaps spinners with a
>> different taper .. ?
>> Anyone had similar issues ??
>>
>> As an aside, trying to get my head around all this, appears to me that
>> torque is also (as well as splines) transmitted by the taper fit between
>> the wheel inside and hub, as otherwise the wheel would not tighten when the
>> spinner is tightened .. ??
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>
>
> --
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
>
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>



-- 
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
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