<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Roger,<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">If you read the original Rudge-Whitworth patent on the spline drive wheels you will note that there was a need for clearance in the splines to allow the self tightening function to work. <br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I suspect that the play that you are noticing is actually part of the design.<br><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 3174<br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 2:28 PM, Roger Grace <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net" target="_blank">roggrace@telus.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
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<div>Resolution. Sort of ... mmmm</div>
<div>Now installed 2 new spinners.</div>
<div>Note that the new ones were 0.75 mm deeper than the old ones.</div>
<div>So now have new wheels, hub splines and spinners.</div>
<div>Yes, there is some improvement but have to still slog harder than I think
that I should have to.</div>
<div>Have decided to live with it and keep an eye on early wear on the splines.
To my mind the only other thing is the machining tolerance of the hub splines
from the different suppliers. Reluctant to make a costly science project out of
it at this stage. Do not think that it is the wheel splines as MWS say they
manufacture them in 1000 piece batches.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>However one thing that still baffles me is the fitment of the
wheels/splines.</div>
<div>I cant help thinking of typical drive shaft type spline joints; there is no
free play and little wear.<br>So question is how does tightening the spinner
reduce the play between the splines ??</div>
<div>Or does it ? Is there always some free play in the splines and this is what
causes the wear ?</div>
<div>My thinking is that the 60 deg. taper on hub and wheel play a larger part
in torque transmission than we think. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>Any ideas ??</div>
<div>rg</div>
<div> </div>
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<div><b>From:</b> <a title="michaelsalter@gmail.com" href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank">Michael Salter</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Monday, November 2, 2015 10:41 AM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="roggrace@telus.net" href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net" target="_blank">Roger Grace</a> </div>
<div><b>Cc:</b> <a title="healeys@autox.team.net" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">Healey List</a> </div><span class="">
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Splines and Wheels</div></span></div></div>
<div> </div></div>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="FONT-SIZE:small;FONT-FAMILY:comic sans ms,sans-serif">Hi
Roger,<br></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="FONT-SIZE:small;FONT-FAMILY:comic sans ms,sans-serif">I have
encountered that problem myself with new wheels and splines. so you are not
alone. What was most confusing was that after tightening fully and removing the
KO nut the wheel pulled off the spline easily so my theory about slight
interference on the spline did not hold water. <br>Never really found a cause
and it went away after the wheels were run on the road for a while after which
the KO nut would spin on by hand and require about 1/2 a turn of tightening
<br></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="FONT-SIZE:small;FONT-FAMILY:comic sans ms,sans-serif">Please let me
know if you figure out the cause..<br></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="FONT-SIZE:small;FONT-FAMILY:comic sans ms,sans-serif">BTW good video
about making wire wheels here.<br><a href="http://cara.co.id/2015/06/how-to-make-wire-wheels/" target="_blank">http://cara.co.id/2015/06/how-to-make-wire-wheels/</a><br><br></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="FONT-SIZE:small;FONT-FAMILY:comic sans ms,sans-serif">Michael
S<br></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="FONT-SIZE:small;FONT-FAMILY:comic sans ms,sans-serif">BN1 #174
<br></div></div>
<div class="gmail_extra">
<div> </div>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, Nov 2, 2015 at 12:47 PM, Roger Grace <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net" target="_blank">roggrace@telus.net</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<div>I have just installed new MWS 5.5in 72 spoke wheels and new Moss
(USA made) splined hubs on the rear of my BJ8. Also fitted new turret lug
nuts.</div>
<div>I am not happy with the fitment as have to hammer the hell out of the
spinner to take up the peripheral play in the wheels.</div>
<div>What gives ? Spoken to both MWS and Moss and they are at a loss.</div>
<div>I can confirm that the hub mounting studs are not touching the inside of
the wheel and that the spinners are not bottoming.</div>
<div>Switched front to back spinners and no change.</div>
<div>Spinner thread ID seems to be within spec. at 2.194 in</div>
<div>Now thinking about new spinners .. ?? Are there perhaps spinners with a
different taper .. ?</div>
<div>Anyone had similar issues ??</div>
<div> </div>
<div>As an aside, trying to get my head around all this, appears to me that
torque is also (as well as splines) transmitted by the taper fit between the
wheel inside and hub, as otherwise the wheel would not tighten when the
spinner is tightened .. ??</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
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<div>
<div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span style="COLOR:black">If you can't fix it with
a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br>
<div></div>
<div></div>
<div></div></div></div></div></div></div><a></a>
</div></div><span class=""><p color="#000000" align="left">No virus found in this
message.<br>Checked by AVG - <a href="http://www.avg.com" target="_blank">www.avg.com</a><br>Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus
Database: 4455/10935 - Release Date:
11/02/15</p></span></div></div></div></div>
</blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br><div class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span style="color:black">If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></div>
</div>