[Healeys] Missing under Load
Oudesluys
coudesluijs at chello.nl
Thu Jun 4 07:50:14 MDT 2015
I would not be surprised at all if ECU's from nearby modern cars can be
affected.
Kees Oudesluijs
Michael Oritt schreef op 4-6-2015 om 15:37:
> What Michael says is true.
>
> Here's another one that happened with my Elva Courier race car: Once
> while getting ready for a race weekend I switched distributor caps
> from one that had suppression leads to another that solid core
> wires. As soon as I started the engine the electro-magnetic field
> managed to turn my video cam, which was hard-wired into the car's
> 12VDC, off and on randomly.
>
> As an experiment I powered the cam from a separate battery and even
> though it was about 10 feet from the car with no wires whatsoever
> connecting it to the car the electromagnetic field created by the
> ignition system still took control of the cam.
>
> As soon as I switched back to suppression leads the issue went away.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:18 AM, Michael Salter
> <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Although I use them myself I do have one caution regarding the use
> of solid core ignition wires.
> As Michael Oritt discovered in Targa Newfoundland they can play
> havoc with electronics. We encountered problems with our "wired"
> intercom and Terratrip rally meter which immediately vanished when
> we reverted to suppressor leads.
> I have also found that my cell phone will not receive messages or
> even do GPS navigation while the engine is running in #174 which
> has completely original 62 year old Lucas ignition components.
> Michael S
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 7:20 AM, Simon Lachlan
> <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>> wrote:
>
> Not 100% sure what you mean by “the advance curves are
> retained”. In the 123 you can choose your advance curve.
>
> And I’m sure one of the built in choice approximates to the
> original.
>
> And yes(!), I too have a complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The
> correct rotor arm, decent old Champion plug caps, bumble bee
> copper wire. Fitted with a Pertronix. Points also carried on
> longer expeditions. Belt and braces!!
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com
> <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>]
> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 07:33
> *To:* Simon Lachlan
> *Cc:* Bob Spidell; Healey list
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>
> The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is the advance curves are
> retained and also if your pertronix does fry, keeping points
> in the boot is easy for a backup. I have a 123 in my A90 and
> I keep a full lucas dizzy with attached cam driveshaft in the
> boot, just in case. Call me strange.
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan
> <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>> wrote:
>
> Or get a 123Ignition distributor.
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *Bob
> Spidell
> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 06:09
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>
> Agree across-the-board. Had same problem with suppressor
> wires; installed copper stranded wires and no problem in 60K
> miles or so.
>
>
>
> re: "Strongly suggested I install points instead of the
> Petronics." Why? Does he recommend blood-letting and
> trepanning for headaches? I know Jeff is an acknowledged
> expert, but disagree with the points recommendation. Name a
> modern manufacturer--they of the 100K mile tuneups--that
> recommends points? Have (probably) 80K miles on
> Pertronix--with OEM Lucas cap and stranded wires--with no
> ignition issues (save the occasional well-known bad rotor).
> If you like changing points every 5K miles, fine, but it's not
> the solution to every ignition problem.
>
> You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can find one),
> stranded copper wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas suppressor
> plug caps, good plugs, and a quality rotor.
>
> Bob
>
> On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
> If you are running suppressed modern wires into your
> standard Lucas cap, you can have huge problems, as the
> graphite type materials they use in these don't like
> connecting to the screw connector in the Lucas cap . You
> need to use metal core wires, such as bumble bee wire.
>
> Also did you check distributor shaft wobble? If your
> dizzy bushes are worn, and you have excessive wobble, you
> could also be having similar problems.
>
> Lastly, check internal wires/insulating washers in the
> dizzy make sure it is all kosher.
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price Lindsay
> <050.rpl at gmail.com <mailto:050.rpl at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Took the BJ8 out today. Changed the plug wire to #6 (there
> was a visible spark last night). The car struggled big
> time Had to change rotors every 3 miles in order to get
> the car home. Driving along and all of a sudden backfire,
> black smoke, nothing. Changed the rotor (it was noticeably
> hot) and got another 2 or 3 miles out of it. Looked
> tonight in the dark and the visible spark from number 6
> plug was not there. Talked to Jeff with Advanced
> Distributors and he suggested it was plug wires. Strongly
> suggested I install points instead of the Petronics. At
> his suggestion, I checked the ohm reading on the plug
> wires and they checked out OK. Still wondering if it
> could be bad gas, I did add a product called “Heat.”
> Supposed to absorb any water that may be in the gas tank.
> Not much help, so far.
>
> I’m waiting for the plug wires and distributor cap from
> Moss Motors to show up to install them. Hope that helps
> but not really convinced it’s the solution.
>
> Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
>
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> --
> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>
>
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