[Healeys] #174 has a running problem

[Perry]

Car is currently here in Gettysburg PA and has been unloaded from Mikes interesting car hauler. Mike believed it was a loose brown wire to regulator.  I'm guessing more to follow from Mike after the meet. 
Perry

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 20, 2015, at 3:30 PM, Rohan Marr <rohanmarr at mac.com> wrote:
> 
> Did I miss the final answer?? I have been on the edge of my seat as I am also experiencing very similar issues. Apologies if it was posted as the list & /or my email has been flakey lately.
> 
> 
> 
> *******************************
> Rohan (aka Aussie)
> ’56 Longbridge BN4 “Hellouise"
> 
>> On Jul 16, 2015, at 5:09 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Well here is what I found.
>> The brown wire that runs from the starter solenoid to the "A" terminal of the voltage regulator had come out but was resting on the terminal screw. I re installed that wire and the engine started immediately and seemed to run perfectly on a short 2 mile test drive...I didn't have time to do a prolonged drive before loading and departing for Enclave....
>> Do you think I have it?
>> 
>> Michael S
>> BN1 #174
>> From: Bob Haskell
>> Sent: ‎16/‎07/‎2015 6:00 p.m.
>> To: Michael Salter; healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] #174 has a running problem
>> 
>> Intermittent grounding of the coil to cut-off switch wire?
>> 
>> Bob Haskell
>> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>> 
>> On 07/16/2015 02:32 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> > I have done the following;
>> >
>> > STEPS TAKEN TO FIND RUNNING PROBLEM
>> >
>> > This car has an original cap, original wires, original NA8 spark plugs,
>> > original black coil, original fuel pump. I am determined not to change
>> > any of these original parts unless I can confirm definitely that that
>> > item is the source of the problems…it a concours issue!!
>> >
>> > After many short trips 10 – 15 miles etc... the engine started to run
>> > very badly after 35 odd miles of a longer test drive on a warm but not
>> > hot day after travelling over a few hundred meters of rough road under
>> > construction eventually stopping completely as I tried to climb a hill.
>> > Sounded to be running on 2 cylinders at times. Backfiring through
>> > exhaust… no throttle response.
>> >
>> > Cranked but would not start..Appeared to have spark at the coil wire..
>> >
>> > Affer cooling started out again…after 20 odd miles stopped with the same
>> > symptoms… pulling choke seemed to make no difference.
>> >
>> > Could not hear fuelpump ticking but had fuel pressure at the front
>> > carb……good spark at coil wire…spark at plugs looked thin …Changed the
>> > condenser and the rotor and it started reluctantly and ran well for
>> > about 15 miles then stopped again….same symptoms….changed rotor…ran for
>> > 2 miles same symptoms…
>> >
>> > Found “3 cut” washers under the carb float chamber struts which I think
>> > could be sealing off the vent slots for the float chambers…
>> >
>> > Next day, today, I headed out for another extended drive and the car ran
>> > perfectly on a similar day for 36 miles then repeated the problem after
>> > 36 miles and I just managed to nurse it home another 11 miles….it
>> > actually died as I approached our driveway and I coasted in with the
>> > ignition turned off.Nothing would make it start.
>> >
>> > Tested the coil 4.6 ohms with no short to ground. Took off the float
>> > chamber lids and both were full to the correct level. The engine cranked
>> > but would just not start..
>> >
>> > After checking everything I could think of I believe that I have found
>> > the problem but I don’t have time to do another 36 mile test before
>> > loading the car to take to Enclave…
>> >
>> > What do you think I found?
>> >
>> >
>> > Michael..
>> >
>> > --
>> > /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>> >
>> >
>> >
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