[Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition

[Earl Kagna]

Mitch - lots of interesting replies!

My experience:  I've run electronic ignitions on both Healey for many 
years - a Repco - which became Allison, which became Crane on my BJ8, 
approx. 120K miles until it was taken off the road for restoration.  I've 
had a Pertronix on the tri-carb for 18 years - 46K miles since installation. 
I've never had a problem with either one.

The BJ8 is back on the road with a 123 ignition installed.  It's built into 
a Lucas distributor - for looks only  - it functions the same as the normal 
123.  The Pertronix (and some others) replace the 'switching' function only, 
replacing the points and condenser, with the weights and springs in the 
distributor still functioning to provide the mechanical advance.  It's 
important to recognise that the mechanical part of the distributor is 
usually worn on these old beasts, and should be repaired to correct specs 
regardless of whether points or Pertronx (and others like it).

The 123 is fully electronic, replacing points, condenser, weights and 
springs.  It uses the vacuum advance function by supplying the necessary 
vacuum to a vacuum sensitive microchip on the circuit board - pretty 
sophisticated for our old cars!  But it sure works well!  It's early days 
yet for me - only about 2K miles on the 123, but I really like it so far.

No-one has mentioned a couple of other things about using an electronic 
ignition:  they tend to damp out 'wobble' from wear in the distributor - 
there will be less timing fluctuation without a rubbing block on the dist. 
cam.  The triggering slots or magnets being well outboard compared to points 
helps here as well.  Also, it's my finding that points don't do as well on 
our old seasonally driven cars as they did when the cars were daily drivers. 
The points tend to deteriorate / coat / corrode faster when the car sits for 
a few months, especially in damp climates.  The maintenance factor alone is 
enough for me.

With the electronics, I've always kept the parts that were removed from the 
distributor in a baggie in the car in order to be able to make a roadside 
repair in case of an electronic failure.  I'm convinced that having the bits 
necessary to get me running again just might help to keep the electronic 
'Leprechauns' away.  I plan on carrying a complete known good spare 
distributor with points installed, and a wired spare cap, along with at 
least a couple of rotors, in the BJ8 in order to convince the 123 to not 
fail.

I also use electronic fuel pumps in both cars for similar reasons - they are 
diaphragm pumps and click satisfactorily, just like the originals.

It's worth noting that if you are considering switching the car to NEG 
ground, the time to do that (if not already done) would be before ordering 
any electronic bits.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Mitch
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2013 4:53 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition

Hello,
B
I can't seem to access the archives so I will ask.....................I 
would
like to ask which is bestB  .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition
(pertronics)B  or is there a better elect. ign. system avail.? I have
Pertronics now ....seems ok...............I am going to have my distributorB
rebuilt/re-curvedB  by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points are
better as did a few others I have asked...............................so I 
am
going to take a consensus
pros. and cons. would be greatly appreciated..............I just want the 
best
performance from my stock 1966 BJ8.
what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
B
Thanks
Mitch