[Healeys] Non Healey rusty question

[Jackson Krall]

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On Tue, Jun 26, 2012 11:29 AM EDT Jackson Krall wrote:

>
>
>When rebuilding the Williamsburgh Bridge
>here in NYC during the 80's, engineers were amazed at the good condition of the main cables which had been coated in linseed oil 100 yrs prior. The rest of the painted bridge was rotting away.
> The boiled version dries to touch faster but still takes a long time and I think this is it's main downside. I have used it many, many times on metal and wood. For wood,especialy, it should be thinned w/spirits. It will darken the finish of wood or metal.
>These days, I prefer to remove all rust w/phosphoric acid, rather than coat it. A clear coat of poly or linseed  can then be used to coat. The poly will retain the lighter metalic colour.
>Best
>JK
>
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>On Tue, Jun 26, 2012 3:03 AM EDT Oudesluys wrote:
>
>>Mike,
>>Raw or boiled linseed oil will set when metal oxides, as a catalyst, are present. Well, rust is iron oxide thus the linseed oil will set fine. I think Japan drier works  similarly, probably a metal oxide or salt solution. Raw linseed oil will penetrate much better than boiled linseed oil. It is used mixed with lead oxide and turpentine on sea vessels to keep the rust at bay. I have used this stuff several times and it is one of the best ways to keep your garden fence in good shape.
>>Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>
>>Op 25-6-2012 22:41, Mike Brouillette schreef:
>> Thanks Kees,
>> 
>>                  I talked to a couple folks who knew what works allowing
>> the natural rust color to come thru and the formula is:
>> 
>> pint boiled linseed oil
>> 3oz beeswax
>> cup turpentine
>> drop of Japan drier
>> 
>> Problem with linseed by itself is it takes forever to dry.  This works
>> better.
>>_______________________________________________