[Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7

[Rich C]

Mark,

No, the seal needs to pinch slightly under the base. If it stops short it 
will, over time, leave a gap there.

Rich

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 6:51 PM
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7

> big help,  HUGE help,  ELEPHANT SIZE help.   Good stuff Richard. Thanks.
>
> Last detaily question.   There is a small space  in the pedestal bottom, 
> should I run the new seal
> under the pedestal or just up to the edge of it and cut it.  If the seal 
> isn't sitting under the pedestal then
> it will not take as much force to push the pedistals down ,  obviously , 
> but if that isn't correct then
> I won't do it.
>
> Thanks,  Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
> To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 9:22 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7
>
>
>> Mark,
>>
>> 1. The area should be prepared with a swipe of flat (not glossy) paint 
>> brush painted the matching interior trim colour along this area covering 
>> just up and over the ridge on the shroud so the exterior painted surface 
>> is not seen in the resulting small gap between pad and windscreen rubber. 
>> I always then have the scuttle seal installed and the dash top pad 
>> fitted. That will allow decent access to install the trim screws into the 
>> forward corners of the pad. The windscreen seal will not actually touch 
>> the dash pad but will fit immediately ahead of it.
>> The base seal on the 6 cylinder roadster models fits into the T slot base 
>> of the glass frame. The large lip which faces forward is molded to roll 
>> under itself. This must be forced to come out from being rolled under so 
>> it can sit tight against the painted surface. It's going to require an 
>> assistant to ease that lip out from under. I've used a thin soft nylon 
>> cord with a knot tied in it to pull it out without harming paint, (a bit 
>> of liquid soap or spray lubricant helps here) maintaining enough pressure 
>> so it can't pop back under, while another is working from beneath the 
>> dash pulling down and maintaining pressure with bolts ready. Don't forget 
>> the windscreen post pad must already be on the post base. To maintain 
>> this pressure needed, I use a couple of long tapered pins to go through a 
>> body holes left and right sides, and angle up to catch a windscreen post 
>> hole and force the lot all down far enough to start a bolt. Packing shims 
>> may be needed between post and body for best fit.
>>
>> 2. There will be no thinning down of the seal in any way to make it fit. 
>> Of course the ends will be trimmed to length so they lie neatly in 
>> relation to the windscreen post pads.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> Rich