[Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7

Mark LaPierre lapierrem at sbcglobal.net
Thu Apr 1 15:51:20 MST 2010


big help,  HUGE help,  ELEPHANT SIZE help.   Good stuff Richard. Thanks.

Last detaily question.   There is a small space  in the pedestal bottom, 
should I run the new seal
under the pedestal or just up to the edge of it and cut it.  If the seal 
isn't sitting under the pedestal then
it will not take as much force to push the pedistals down ,  obviously , 
but if that isn't correct then
I won't do it.

Thanks,  Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
To: "Mark LaPierre" <lapierrem at sbcglobal.net>; <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Install on BT7


> Mark,
>
> 1. The area should be prepared with a swipe of flat (not glossy) paint 
> brush painted the matching interior trim colour along this area covering 
> just up and over the ridge on the shroud so the exterior painted surface 
> is not seen in the resulting small gap between pad and windscreen rubber. 
> I always then have the scuttle seal installed and the dash top pad fitted. 
> That will allow decent access to install the trim screws into the forward 
> corners of the pad. The windscreen seal will not actually touch the dash 
> pad but will fit immediately ahead of it.
> The base seal on the 6 cylinder roadster models fits into the T slot base 
> of the glass frame. The large lip which faces forward is molded to roll 
> under itself. This must be forced to come out from being rolled under so 
> it can sit tight against the painted surface. It's going to require an 
> assistant to ease that lip out from under. I've used a thin soft nylon 
> cord with a knot tied in it to pull it out without harming paint, (a bit 
> of liquid soap or spray lubricant helps here) maintaining enough pressure 
> so it can't pop back under, while another is working from beneath the dash 
> pulling down and maintaining pressure with bolts ready. Don't forget the 
> windscreen post pad must already be on the post base. To maintain this 
> pressure needed, I use a couple of long tapered pins to go through a body 
> holes left and right sides, and angle up to catch a windscreen post hole 
> and force the lot all down far enough to start a bolt. Packing shims may 
> be needed between post and body for best fit.
>
> 2. There will be no thinning down of the seal in any way to make it fit. 
> Of course the ends will be trimmed to length so they lie neatly in 
> relation to the windscreen post pads.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Rich


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