[Healeys] clutch staying 'on' followup

[Dave Russell]

The BN1, BN2 brake master cylinder, though working differently,  
sometimes has a similar problem.  Usually, on these cars, the MC 
operating rod can be adjusted to allow full piston return & proper bleed 
back. Sometimes the rubber is too thick to allow full piston return. 
Depending on the exact parts stack up & sizes, folks sometimes 
"lengthen" the back relief port to allow the wheel cylinders to properly 
bleed back when the pedal is released.

There could possibly be a similar problem with the later brake & clutch 
cylinders, as you say.

Dave Russell

Steve B. Gerow wrote:

>I had had a situation where my clutch was staying 'on' when the pedal was
>pressed. I believed my master cylinder was staying slightly depressed and
>wasn't allowing the slave cylinder to push fluid upstream to the Reservoir
>on taking my foot off the clutch. This was similar to the situation where
>posters here said the flex line collapses internally and acts like a one-way
>valve.
>
>Today I removed the rubber cup washer between the mushroom end of the
>pushrod and the cup end of the piston. This washer is shown  on P 48 of the
>current Moss catalog as #79--the right middle one.
>
>It was depressing the pistons enough to block the return port. Clutch works
>fine now. FYI.
>
>Am suspicious here that the rebuild kit is not made quite properly and the
>rubber washer is too thick--not just sealing around the edge of the mushroom
>end like it should.
>
>A local collector sold a BN1 last year because the brakes kept locking after
>a lot of troubleshooting--this sounds like possibly the same issue.