[Healeys] Testing a battery, non Healey

[Richard Ewald]

Simon,
Sixty milliamps is too much by a factor of about three.  I would expect at
rest your car to consume NO MORE 20-25 mA tops.  most likely less.  Even the
modern fully computerized cars I teach on only draw about 25 mA when
sleeping.
With your ampmeter hooked up go though and remove fuses one by one to
determine the source of the draw, and correct.
Start with the power to any aftermarket systems like alarms and radios.
After that, go to the factory systems.
Good luck
Rick


On 1/21/08, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Many thanks for all the replies re. the above. Some very useful stuff.
> Thanks for taking the time..
>
> I tend to get lost when I approach the milliamp area, but this is where I
> think I am:-
>
> Ignition off, keys in my pocket.
>
> If I disconnect the battery's + lead and put a test light between clamp
> and
> terminal, the light illuminates.
>
> If I put in a meter, I get a reading of 60milliamps, I think. The arrow
> flicks in time with the red light on the console for the alarm system. Do
> I
> assume that the 60 milliamps is primarily being consumed by the alarm?
>
> How much is 60 milliamps anyhow? Six thousandths of an amp?? Doesn't sound
> like much? But spread it over a week???
>
> I think this is pointing me towards the old/dying battery scenario......??
>
>
>
> While I'm pushing my luck on the non Healey front, anyone ever have any
> luck
> with the heater control valves in Porsche 944S2s? It appears to be
> electrically triggered but vacuum powered. I gather they go wrong quite
> frequently.
>
> Simon
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