[Healeys] steering box rebuild

WILLIAM B LAWRENCE ynotink at msn.com
Mon Jan 14 21:35:35 MST 2008


I rebuilt the box on my BN1 way back when. As I recall it was a little 
complicated because the bearings don't have cages like the later boxes. 
Getting all of those little balls to stay in place while you assemble the 
column and worm gear in the box is a little tricky. As I recall it took a 
lot of very sticky grease, a lot of chasing little steel balls and lots of 
time to "try it again". When I finally got the thing together, to my 
satisfaction, I had one ball bearing left over which I will 
install...someday.

The trick in choosing shims is to set the end float on the box as close to 
zero as possible without preloading the bearings.That allows the worm to 
turn easily without any float. End float translates to lost motion, better 
known as slop, in the steering assembly. Preload translates into friction 
and resistance in the steering gear.

I was fortunate that the worm and peg on my box were in pretty good 
condition. If you have a selection try to choose the ones that are closest 
to standard.


Bill Lawrence



>From: Ray Juncal <healeyray at yahoo.com>
>To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] steering box rebuild
>Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 09:59:46 -0800 (PST)
>
>Brethren of the List
>     What is the collective wisdom on rebuilding an early steering box?  
>(BN-1 BN-2)  I am making three into two as one of the three has a cracked 
>case.  I can use the best two parts from the three available.
>     So, how do I tell the best from the worst?  I'm talking about the 
>subtle stuff.  I can tell a pitted bearing race or grooved shaft  at the 
>lip seal.
>      The worm gears all show wear.  How much of this can be adjusted out 
>by setting the pin depth?  Any tricks to picking the best one besides close 
>visual inspection.  Does anyone make a replacement worm gear?  The follower 
>pins are available but my pins don't seem to show much wear.  How do I 
>check them?
>     What should I look for in the shaft to case fit?  Should I check the 
>case / bushing with inside micrometer?  What are the specs.  How come the 
>bushings for the idler are $7 and the one for the steering box is $70 
>something??  It's not 10 times as long.
>     Since this is mix and match I have no reference on how many shims it 
>might take to set the bearing clearance on the worm gear.  The book says 
>how to check it in the car with the wheel on but I'm on the bench.  Any way 
>to measure or what to feel for?
>     Last what is the fix for the not available felt bushing at the top of 
>the steering column?
>Thanks Guys
>Ray Juncal
><healeyray.com>
>
>
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