[Fot] Koni vs Gaz vs Spax - TR6 racecar

[Ponostyle]

You guys just don’t squeeze the rulebook hard enough. If your roll cage is “braced” by extending from near the top of the cage to the rear spring mount or thereabout, you have an ideal place to mount a shock that doesn’t depend on a spindly frame. Also makes said spindly frame a lot less spindly.

Bill Babcock
Beach Bum
bill at ponostyle.com
https://www.Ponostyle.com

> On Jan 31, 2024, at 11:38 AM, Mark Cook via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Bob and Charly,
>  
> Thanks – It crossed my mind about potential rear frame damage with the tube shock bracket when I was inspecting the rear shocks.  Not a lot of support there compared to the original lever shocks.  So, with your and Charly’s comments, will likely refit with adjustable lever shocks for the rear.
>  
> Appreciate both your and Mark S’s comments on Delrin/Nylatron which is also helpful.   
>  
> Hope to see you at VIR in March/April.  Will not be driving, but will be up to watch.
>  
> Thanks you,
>  
> Mark
>  
> From: Robert Lang [mailto:robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com <mailto:robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com>] 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2024 1:40 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>; Mark Cook
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Koni vs Gaz vs Spax - TR6 racecar
>  
> Hi,
>  
> Go with the Koni shocks in front. The SPAX shocks work well, but the gas leaks out and they become "just shocks" and without the gas, they can foam which effects the shock efficiency over the course of a session. Or plan to replace the Spax every two years, plus or minus.
>  
> For the rears, unless you converted to a coil over setup and / or tie your shocks to your roll cage GET RID OF THE TUBE SHOCKS. I have seen a lot of problems with the conversion shock setups out there and you risk frame damage running with those shocks. I can write a lot on this topic, but unless you can verify the action of the bump stops AND secure the shocks via rod ends, I will guarantee frame structural failure over time.
>  
> So - get a set of stock Armstrong lever shocks for the rear and get nosimport.com <http://nosimport.com/> (worldwide autoparts in Madison, WI) to rebuild them as adjustable and you get both a workable, reliable setup and it will work without messing up your frame. Unless you do stupid things like I do and bottom the suspension and break the frame, but I digress. I've run the Armstong adjustables for a long time and they work great. With a little tuning, you can get rid of the rear squat when you tromp on it, Makes the car handle completely differently.
>  
> Delrin is a trademark, I believe - the material is the same as Nylatron. You can verify by looking at the durometer ratings.
>  
> Regards,
> Bob Lang
>  
> On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 01:24:07 PM EST, Mark Cook via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote: 
>  
>  
> Quick question (maybe?).   I am replacing the existing Koni front adjustable shocks (PN 80-1784).  Bushings are worn out as likely are the shocks. Same with the rear adjustable SPAX shocks on my ’69 TR6 racecar.  I am more familiar with Bilstein, Koni and MCS.  
> 
>  
> 
> Any preference?  Spax and Gaz are unknown to me, but the external adjuster is appealing compared to having to remove the Koni’s every time I need to adjust the suspension.
> 
>  
> 
> Using the “while I am in there” approach, I will be replacing all the front/rear suspension bushings.  Have purchased Nylatron bushings.  Cannot find Delrin products for TR6.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  
> 
> Mark Cook
> 
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