[Fot] More on my TR-2/3 Starter Question

Jack Wheeler jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com
Tue Oct 22 12:09:27 MDT 2019


 Attached is a picture of a page from the workshop manual dealing with the TR-2/3 starter drive unit.  I refer you to the section titled "Starter  motor drive".  I have completed items shown as number 1 and number 2.  Item 3 talks about a "peg", which my starter does not have.  In this case, it says to "Hold the squared end of the starter shaft and unscrew the locating nut F".  However, holding the shaft, the locating nut just turns on the shaft, and nothing happens.  Does anyone have any experience with disassembling this portion of the starter drive assembly?  If so, I would appreciate any help you can give me to get this thing apart.  Thanks.
Jack

   ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Jack Wheeler <jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com>To: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>Cc: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2019, 12:39:19 PM EDTSubject: Re: [Fot] TR-2/3 Starter Question
  Hi Randall, and thanks again for your help on my starter problem... and also to the others on the FOT list who have chimed in.  For the benefit of those who missed it in earli9er email strings, I've attached the exploded diagram you sent me.  I'm beginning to think I am wasting my time trying to get a good working starter out of the parts that I have.
I am working on an early (prior to 50,000) TR-2/3 starter (the one where the shaft coming out of the body is covered with a cap).  The problem is that I can't get the major components of the starter (the rubber unit assembly, and the sleeve, etc.) to slide off the shaft.  I have followed your instructions (included below in this email string) as follows:

 "In the attached diagram, you pull away the collar, A, then 
> > pry the retaining ring B out of it's groove.  Then you have 
> > to work retaining ring C out of the pinion barrel D.  With it 
> > removed, the pinion & barrel should just slide off, exposing 
> > the Bendix drive inside"
I removed the collar and the retaining ring (A & B), and pryed the retaining ring (C) out of the pinion barrel (D).  This exposes the bendix drive.  So far, so good.  In order to replace the rubber unit assembly (these are available), I will have to slide the bendix drive and the old rubber unit assembly off the shaft.  I thought these would just slide off at this point, but no, that is not the case.  I even tried putting it in a hydraulic press and got no movement whatsoever.  So, there must be something else holding these items on the shaft.  Can anyone help me identify the missing piece?  Thanks to all.
Jack

    On Saturday, October 19, 2019, 9:44:04 PM EDT, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:  
 
 I'm sorry, Jack, I don't.  Stuff doesn't rust much around here.

But if you're sure the clips are out, I would probably make up a simple
clamp to grab the barrel.  Just take a scrap of 2x4 lumber, maybe 6" long,
and drill a hole the same diameter as the barrel.  Cut through the hole
lengthwise, then use a couple of bolts to clamp the two halves together over
the barrel.  Then you could hang that in a press, and use a brass drift to
press on the end of the shaft.  Should get it apart, without undue damage.
(But if it's rusted that badly, it may be toast anyway.)

Note that the "control nut" K has "ears" that stick through the slots in the
barrel.  They have to slide out as it comes apart, which is why you can't
apply force on the inside end of the barrel.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack Wheeler [mailto:jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com] 
> Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2019 2:59 PM
> To: Randall
> Cc: FOT List
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-2/3 Starter Question
> 
> Hi Randall.  Thanks again.  I took your exploded diagram and 
> instructions to the guy working on my starter yesterday.  It 
> looks to me like he is doing everything right, but it just 
> won't come apart.  He's reluctant to apply too much pressure, 
> or hit it too hard with a hammer, for fear of breaking 
> something.  He's removed the collar and the two retaining 
> rings, but can't slide the bendix off the shaft.  He's 
> working with 2 starters and both are experiencing the same 
> problem.  I'm wondering if it might just be a build-up of 
> rust on the shaft, that is keeping it from coming apart.  Do 
> you have any experience with this?
> 
> This is getting frustration.  Best regards.
> 
> Jack
> 
> 
> On Friday, October 18, 2019, 9:32:40 AM EDT, Randall 
> <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote: 
> 
> 
> That's just from the workshop manual.  Here's the whole thing 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffYWZiN2VlZGMtNTkx
Mi00NGUzLWE4Nz
> MtMGRkODRkYzU3MDU1
> 
> -- Randall
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jack Wheeler [mailto:jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com] 
> > Sent: Friday, October 18, 2019 5:40 AM
> > To: Randall
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-2/3 Starter Question
> > 
> > Thanks, Randall.  The exploded diagram will be very helpful.
> > 
> > Jack
> > 
> > 
> > On Thursday, October 17, 2019, 7:53:40 PM EDT, Randall 
> > <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > It has been awhile, but I've had those early starters apart 
> > many times.
> > 
> > In the attached diagram, you pull away the collar, A, then 
> > pry the retaining ring B out of it's groove.  Then you have 
> > to work retaining ring C out of the pinion barrel D.  With it 
> > removed, the pinion & barrel should just slide off, exposing 
> > the Bendix drive inside. 
> > 
> > I've not asked recently, but my FLAPS used to be able to send 
> > those old starters out to be rebuilt.  Quoted turnaround was 
> > 1 week, but I never tried it.  Wouldn't let me talk to the 
> > rebuilder directly, though.
> > 
> > Frankly, I got disgusted and installed a gear-drive starter 
> > instead.  After 10 years of near-daily usage, it did need new 
> > bearings and the brushes were about half gone, but I still 
> > think it's better.  For one thing, it doesn't have the 
> > "bonded rubber" drive that seems to fail quite often trying 
> > to crank a high compression engine.
> > 
> > BFE used to sell a "fail safe" replacement for the rubber 
> > drive, but I think I got the last one many years ago and Ken 
> > said he wasn't having any more made.  The current proprietor 
> > of BFE probably doesn't know anything about them.
> > 
> > -- Randall
> > 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> > 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> > 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> > 
> > 
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> > > Jack Wheeler via Fot
> > > Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2019 10:29 AM
> > > To: FOT List
> > > Subject: [Fot] TR-2/3 Starter Question
> > > 
> > > Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding the early 
> > > starters, as used on TR-2's and TR-3's, up to about chassis 
> > > number 50,000 (the "long" starters)?  i took my starter to a 
> > > local electrical shop a couple of months ago and he is stuck. 
> > >  He can't figure out how to remove the pinion (with gear) 
> > > from the shaft.  Is there a secret to getting the pinion off?
> > > 
> > > Or, does anyone know of any place that rebuilds these early 
> > > starters, who may be able to help me with this question?  Or, 
> > > I could send the starter to them.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Thanks for any help you can give me.
> > > 
> > > Jack Wheeler
> > > 
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 

    
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