[Fot] Solid Six?

Tue Dec 31 12:14:19 MST 2019

 Ditto for issues getting the lift swing arms under a low car.  I usually run mine up on some square patio stones which takes a lot less time than getting it on the 4 dollies first.  Its worked on some pretty low competition cars.
    On Tuesday, December 31, 2019, 12:36:36 PM EST, Bob Kramer via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:  

 Got all the power stuff covered. With 40 foot depth I choose to run most everything down the middle at 20'.  The welder and compressor 220V are on the opposite wall from the breaker box..  I have another tip that I can pass on from Robert MacKenzie,  I plan on a free floor lift and getting the arms under teh car is always a pain.  Robert puts his car on a set of dollies first. makes the arm swing a breeze.
Bob Kramer

On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 11:01 AM Bob Bownes -Seiri <bownes at seiri.com> wrote:

It’s overkill, but I have an electrical reel and air hose reel over each bay. It comes in terribly handy. 
Don’t know about the planned lift, but mine is 220VAC, so don’t forget you may need that. 
On that note, I’ve been accumulating Real  Machine Tools of late that all need 220 3phase. So 220 drops are going in around the shop for those and the welder. I find it easier to move the welder to the work than the work to the welder sometimes. 

On Dec 31, 2019, at 11:54, Bob Kramer via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Those are great ideas. I used the RapidAir tubing system and I have an overhead run 20' in.  Dropping a line down and mounting it on both posts of the lifts would be a simple upgrade.. I did think ahead and wired in an extra 30 amp circuit up top. I was planning on using a retractable electric hose reel but dropping an outlet to the posts might be a better plan. 
Bob Kramer

On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 8:52 AM Bill Tobin via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Bob put the lift in the easiest accessible best lighted spot in the shop. Also run air and power outlets to the lift; this eliminates stringing hoses and cords across the floor. Put a workbench close to the lift area; maybe on wheels. You can also never have too much shelving. Or lighting especially as we age and eyesight isn't quite what is used to be! And maybe have a small room sectioned off for your lathe milling machine and maybe surface grinder.

While you're at it maybe add another 10 or 20 feet to the original specs!

Ask me how I learned all this stuff!

Happy New Year everyone.

Cheers Bill

 On 12/31/2019 8:46 AM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote:

 Is that a 50 x 30?  
  I built a 30 X 40 and it took the better part of a year to get it outfitted between other stuff. Shelving, electrical, lighting, work benches and air lines. With a 12' front door on a 30' front, I still can't decide where to put a lift. 
   Bob Kramer   

  On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 12:04 PM John Styduhar via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

  I recently picked up an early TR4 frame from a fellow WPTA club member that is in decent shape and have all the necessary bits to build a wide track for my TR3.  This will be my next project after outfitting my new headquarters.   
  On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 10:57 AM Mark J Bradakis via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

This TR3 Beta got me thinking.  The TR4 was based on a modified TR3 
 frame.  The TR4A frame was a totally new design, and adaptable to either 
 the IRS or solid axle rear suspension.  The TR6 used basically the same 
 frame.  Are there solid axle TR6s out there?

 mjb.

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