[Fot] Crown and pinion gear break in

[Bill]

Very pretty, too bad I don’t have a use for them. 

I came to the slow realization in reading all this that I’ve never bought a new set of gears. Everything I have is used but good. I’ve changed out gears in TR diffs many times, but always with the same old stuff. I don’t have any special tools, I’ve just used the tooth pattern and backlash ass a guide. I probably should up my game, but it’s worked fine so far. 

Peyote let go with a bang last weekend, last race, last day of the Columbia River Classic. Ran well on Saturday, didn’t feel quite right on Sunday, and when I checked the timing it was jumping around. I assumed my timing light was crap (it is) and the timing was proper whenever it settled. Engine sounded good in the pits, and it was still competitive. 

Then, near the end of the back straight, BAM. Stuffed the clutch in and coasted through the turns, onto the exit road, through the hot pits and off to the side. Walk of shame back to my pit. 

The jumpy timing source was obvious when I started tearing things down—a distributor full of aluminum shavings. Typical mallory problem. When the advance weight retainer lets go the weights gouge the distributor body and bounce all over the place. With the engine not right I was pushing hard when I should have been loading it up to head home. Dumb. #3 rod bearing stuck and broke off the cap, havoc ensued. At least it didn’t ventilate the block, and the crank might be salvageable. Tony Garmey says there’s a company he’s used that does Ion Plasma welding to redress journals to a better surface finish than new. That would be nice, it’s a good steel crank and everything else (other than the rod and probably the piston) looks fine. At least I was quick on the clutch and kill switch and didn’t hammer things for long. The piston top has a clear imprint of the combustion chamber. I’d guess it might be a tad shorter than spec. 

Oh well, I was tired of working on my motor home restoration anyway. 



> On Sep 10, 2018, at 12:55 PM, barry rosenberg via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Besides having a bunch of Triumph, MGB and Healey special tools, I have the most beautiful set of TR3 thru 4A Headers that I will never use. They are much too pretty for a race car but could look great on a show car. The workmanship on these is excellent, the best I have ever seen. They are polished stainless steel, two parts. Outer two cylinders and inner two cylinders. They will look great as a wall decoration if they don't sell. $500 makes them yours. Tools, books and toys I try to never sell, parts that I don't need, go to go. I also have a great right rear fender for a TR250 in original paint for $400. Needs very very little work to be put on a car, No rust or dents.
> 
> Barry
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> From: Chris Marx via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>>
> To: "fot at autox. team. net" <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> 
> Sent: Monday, September 10, 2018 3:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Crown and pinion gear break in
> 
> Maybe something to know about Diffs:
>  
> On Triumphs, these days are two different types of gear available:
>  
> Gleason gears
> Oerlikon gears
>  
> The workshop manual is referring to Gleason gear type. If you got an Oerlikon type of gear (the more modern one), and you try to set it up with the Workshop manual, then the gear will fail.
> This is because, that the contact pattern, which is shown in the manual, is mirrored at an Oerlikon type.
>  
> So most Oerlikons die of wrong contact pattern, with the pinion too deep in the Crown wheel, almost touching the carrier.
>  
> Cheers
> Chris
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