[Fot] Cylinder head freeze plug help
Jack Wheeler
jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com
Thu May 3 16:16:23 MDT 2018
That's what I was getting at when I suggested in an earlier post that the plug blowing out may be a symptom of a larger problem. You are right 7-12 PSI is not enough to blow out a properly installed freeze plug. By the way, in addition to 29 Triumph TR's (TR-2 through TR-6) that I have owned, I am now working on my 4th Mustang, a 1969 Mach1. So, Triumphs? Mustangs?... Maybe not such a bad combination.
Jack
On Thursday, May 3, 2018, 5:28:29 PM EDT, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
I have been watching this and am curious why do you’ll have so much pressure in the cooling system that it blows freeze plugs out. I have run Shelby’s, Mustangs and now Spitfires.
We use a 7-12 PSI cap, that’s not enough to blow a plug out.
Are you’ll using some high PSI cap or some such thing???
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Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, Inc.
411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211
www.dieselperformanceparts.com
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Phone: 615-834-0066
Fax: 615-834-9923
Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com
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From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of fubog1 via Fot
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 6:39 AM
To: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com; jerryvv at roadrunner.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder head freeze plug help
I routinely strap that rear plug or lock it in with a 10/32 and a flat washer folded in on either side.
Overkill... perhaps, but that sucker isn't coming out.
Glen
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Blake via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
Cc: FOT Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 3:33 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder head freeze plug help
I had one pop out on me at the Sunday afternoon race of the Kastner cup at Road Atlanta a few years ago. I was bummed to miss out on the remaining laps so figured I did not want that to happen again.
When I pulled the head, I drilled and tapped to 10-32 holes each side of the rear freeze plug. After installing the new plug, I installed a bar that spans the plug and bolts to the head using the two trapped holes. In the center of the bar is a weld nut that I run a bolt through to put a little pressure on the freeze plug. Probably over kill, but Won’t be popping again.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 2, 2018, at 12:30 PM, Jerry Van Vlack via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
It goes without saying that you should coat the edges with a good epoxy before you bonk it.
JVV
From: JAMES GRAY via Fot
Sent: Wednesday, May 2, 2018 11:12 AM
To: Jack Wheeler
Cc: FOT Triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder head freeze plug help
Jack,
The old freeze plug was found last night under my catch tank at the battery tray. It didn't have much of a ding in it
so I suspect it could have been flattened more/better when it was first put in.
Last night I was able to clear stuff as required to drill a 1/2" hole in the firewall directly behind the plug.
I already have a length of 1/2" solid round bar, tapered/rounded at the end in the hole just waiting for the new plug to arrive.
The round bar runs right under the dash. I'll be able to knock it in from the cockpit with a 3 pounder.
The car was running better than ever when it went, compression is at 200 psi on all four so at the moment
I don't have any reason to believe there are other problems. No evidence at all of water in the oil or cylinders.
However, once the plug is replaced and running again there will be detailed inspections once it's back up to running temp.
jim g
On May 2, 2018 at 8:40 AM Jack Wheeler <jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi Jim. Consider this. Pulling the head may give you the most correct fit, and also may be quicker, all things considered. When I was racing, and had to pull the head at the race track, I could get it off and back on, new head gasket, and nuts torqued, in under an hour. By the time you make clearance under the dash, and drive the plug in, possibly not aligned correctly, I'll bet you will have over an hour invested. Good luck.
Jack
PS. have you determined what caused the freeze plug to blow out? The one time I had that happen at the race track, it was the result of a major cylinder head failure. You may be looking at a bigger problem than just the freeze plug.
On Tuesday, May 1, 2018, 8:53:42 PM EDT, Duncan Charlton via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
I used one of those expandable core plugs on a BMW 2002 and left it in for the next 60,000 miles with no sign of leaks.
Duncan
On May 1, 2018, at 9:47 AM, William T newman <mnewman at embarqmail.com> wrote:
I've used a neoprene plug at the track to get by until I could pull the head.
Bill Newman
#44 GT6
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Gray via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: 'Duncan Charlton' <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>, 'fot' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 01 May 2018 07:44:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder head freeze plug help
Duncan,
I think that’s where I’m going next, the freeze plug is just about in line with
the bottom of the dash or close. The good thing is it blew the old plug completely out.
I just need to knock a new one in.
I’m pretty sure I can go under the dash and through with a piece of ½ or even ¾” round
bar about 2’ long which I can scrounge at work.
I’ll have to remove some stuff but still better than pulling the head.
jim
From: Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2018 5:36 AM
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>; Jim Gray <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder head freeze plug help
Can you drill a hole through the firewall and drive it out or yank it out that way?
Duncan
On Apr 30, 2018, at 6:57 PM, Jim Gray via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
FoT
I was wondering if anyone has a clever method of putting in a cylinder head freeze plug without removing the head.
I was instructing at our drivers school this past weekend when it blew out.
I may have enough room between the firewall to use a short blunt air chisel
but I have my doubts so if anyone has a better one please let me know.
Thanks as always,
jim g
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