[Fot] Was: Oil Cooler or Oil filter first? Now how to ID flow out the adapter?

Tue Dec 11 05:10:26 MST 2018

On a TR6 engine a friend and I did set the oil pressure relief valve at some 70 psi when the OIL WAS HOT. Next morning, my friend started his engine and after a minute he saw running the oil from under his car : the oil filter O-ring was pressed out of the groove! I believe the oil pressure relief valve is always shut when the engine oil has warmed up. So it makes no sense to set the relief valve when the oil is hot. Isn't the function of the relief valve precisely preventing the oil pressure getting too high on starting up a cold engine? So I would 'tune' the relief valve when the oil is cold at 70 psi : to get there, the valve will be open more or less and it will close gradually when the oil is getting warmer. 
Marcel. 

Van: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net> 
Aan: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net> 
Verzonden: Dinsdag 11 december 2018 09:52:44 
Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Was: Oil Cooler or Oil filter first? Now how to ID flow out the adapter? 

A few years back we had the same issue with oil cooler bursting. It happened 3 times just after a cold engine startup at the track. We found that the fix was to make sure the oil cam up out of the pump, into the filter, then past the oil pressure relief valve before it went into the cooler. When the oil is cold and the engine is first started, revving the engine even a little bit before the oil has warmed up and thinned out a bit causes pressure surges that pass through the oil line. this surge will exceed the ability of the cooler radiator to hold it. after redesigning the oi filter line adapter as stated above, all cooler radiator failures just flat out stopped. This is on a TR-4 engine in Morgan. We generally run 20-50 brad penn 1 oil. the pressure relief valve it set to open at 70 psi with the oil temp about 180 degrees, this is at around 2000 rpm, just as called for in the shop manual. 

As far as the oil temp goes. I also have an aluminum finned sump on both my race car and my street car. I also have an oil temp gauge in each pan. The alloy pan is quite an effective oil cooler. The oil temp can easily get up to 180 or 190 degrees F on an 85 degree day in stop and go traffic. once traffic starts to move at over 40 mph, within 2 miles or so the oil temp will normally drop right down to 140. To get it to run at a higher temp, I have built a leather cover that surrounds the pan on the front, both sides, & the bottom to stop the air flow over the oil pan fins and sides.. It is held to the engine by 6 extra long bolts 3 down each side of the pan. .sometimes, we have had to do this while running an engine on a dyno to get the oil hot enough. 

On one full race engine that we built, we could see signs of contact between the main bearing shell and the crank journals with main bearing clearances of .00175. Opening up those main clearances by .001" to .00275 got rid of all signs of contact and lowered the engine oil temp on the dyno 50 degrees F. With a well prepared oil pump, there is plenty of oil delivery with that much main bearing clearance. 
On 12/5/2018 6:53 PM, Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: 

List, 

Thanks to all who responded about this. The consensus was to go to the oil filter first to catch as much debris as possible before it collects in the oil cooler. Everyone said with an exploded engine (like I experienced) replacing the oil cooler is a requirement. 

So I did replace the oil cooler after blowing up the engine, but TWICE I’ve had them ($160 Earl’s oil coolers) blow out and leak all over the engine bay when doing a test and tune day at the track. I’m on my third oil cooler and trying to reduce the oil pressure that on my gage says 85-90 psi to see if that is what is causing the coolers to leak, although they are rated at 150 psi or more. I put an extra copper washer on the oil pressure relief valve but I’m not sure what is really causing two oil coolers to blow out. Bad luck? Coincidence? Bad parts? I’m getting tired of oiling/cleaning my engine bay. I’ll find out if my washers help on the next track day cause it has happened after 4-5 laps the last two times when I was breaking in new rings. Unfortunately the next track day could be a couple more months. 

So the next question I have is how to know which way the flow is out of the adapter on the engine. See pic below and please tell me if the oil is coming OUT of engine from the right or left fitting in the picture. There are absolutely no markings or clues to tell me. 

Also do most of you measure oil temp on the oil coming out or going into the engine? 

Thanks 
Bud 

BQ_BEGIN

On Dec 3, 2018, at 8:39 AM, Kas Kastner < [ mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com | kaskastner at gmail.com ] > wrote: 

Go to the filter first so any junk in the oil does not contaminat the cooler which is almost impossible to lean completly. If you ever have any engine serious problem and the oil goes to the cooler first you can count on having to replace it also. 

Never be beaten by equipment. 

On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 11:38 PM Bud Rolofson via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: 

BQ_BEGIN
Listerati, 

For those of you running a remote oil cooler and remote oil filter do you run the hose coming OUT of the engine into the cooler first or the filter first? Just wanted to see how and why (if there’s a reason) most run their lines. 

Thanks 
Bud 
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