[Fot] Accusump cleaning

Brian Schirano bschirano at yahoo.com
Sun Dec 9 11:27:36 MST 2018 

same experience as Scott RE  the Accusump cleaning. very surprised at the accumulation given the number of hours the motor runs. I've run the Brad Penn semi syn the last two years, maybe I'll go back to full syn

26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano
585-305-0349 Cell 
BSchirano at yahoo.com 

    On Sunday, December 9, 2018, 12:34:07 PM GMT-5, fubog1 via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
   There are 2 different types of Accusumps re end retention, the screw-in as Scott describes, and another that has a square-section wire ring that slides in/out of a groove through a slot in the housing.Yeah they really need to be stripped to get all of that black sludge out.Glen 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
To: Jim Gray <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
Cc: Brian Schirano <bschirano at yahoo.com>; fubog1 <fubog1 at aol.com>; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>; bownes <bownes at web9.com>; rocky <rocky at spitfire4.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 9, 2018 9:29 am
Subject: Accusump cleaning

I took my Accusump apart last year.  Turns out to be really easy - and really necessary!  there are a couple of holes drilled in the aluminum cap in each end - just insert a couple of dowel pins and you now have the perfect place to apply leverage with a breaker bar.  The output end unscrews easily and the piston pops right out.  All this unit is composed of is a cylinder, an aluminum piston maybe 1” thick with an o-ring, and a cap with an o-ring.However, the amount of sludge was impressive. It’s basically like the bottom of the oil pan when one takes apart the engine - fair amount of gunk.  Having flushed mine out before, I don’t think “rinsing” it with oil gets this out.
Make sure you let the pressure out of both ends before disassembly!

On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:13 PM, Jim Gray via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
Brian,I mis-spoke when I said I flush the accusump with kerosene. I flush the accusump with cheapo oil but flush the sump lines with keroseneWhen I dump the old oil I leave the electric valve open and run the pressure up with the Schrader valve in the other end to insure the piston is bottomed.I put the cheap oil in the oil charger, remove the Schrader valve and connect it to the accusump completely fill the accusump with oil, re connect the sump line, put the Schrader valve back in and run the pressure up to 90 PSI and blow the oil back out into the pan while draining.Then I’ll remove the Schrader valve again, connect my flusher to both ends of the sump line and circulate some kerosene. I still have cheapo oil in the charger,I’ll run a quart of that through the sump line just to chase out any kerosene and move to the oil cooler and cooler lines. The last phase is with new VR-1,Fully charge the accusump, fill the sump line & reconnect, re-fill the oil cooler and cooler lines and reconnect everything & done. I set up all my oil lines to make this easy. My oil cooler lines have an inline filter and both incoming and out going lines have a connection right on top of the L/F fender for easy access.It sounds like a pain but a full oil change and flush takes me about an hour. I could make things even easier with dry break fittings but those things are really pricey so for now I’ll just spend the hour on a change. On a new engine everything will come apart and get hand cleaned.Having that K & P filter really helps get tiny debris out as it’s generated.jim  From: Brian Schirano <bschirano at yahoo.com> 
Sent: Friday, December 7, 2018 8:57 PM
To: fubog1 <fubog1 at aol.com>; fubog1 via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>; bownes at web9.com; rocky at spitfire4.com; JAMES GRAY <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Oil Cooler or Oil filter first? also re filters  would love to hear more on the flushing system. Particularly how do you flush the accusump? there is only one way in and out. I've taken it apart and cleaned it, but a flush?  26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano
585-305-0349 Cell 
BSchirano at yahoo.com    On Friday, December 7, 2018, 11:44:52 AM EST, JAMES GRAY via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:     Some years ago now I had a conversation with Lake Speed Jr at Brad Penn oils about viscosity and drove home the importance of maintaining oil quality. After that conversation I went all out in the way I treat my oiling system.I run the K & P oil filter with cleanble element. I keep a spare filter element which I change out after every day of racing. The filter elements are FAA certified so good enough for me. So, after each day of racing I can see how my motor is doing in just a couple minutes. Oil is changed after two weekends. On each oil change I completely flushall my oil lines, oil cooler and my accusump with kerosene with the handy recirculating flusher I made from a 5 gallon bucket and 12 volt fluid pump. I'll run a few quarts of cheap oil through just to make sure there is no kerosene left. After that I recharge the entire system with a pressurized oil fill can with VR-1.This way I have all the old oil out and can refill the oil lines, cooler and accusump with fresh oil. Then I can re-pressurize the accusump and it's ready to go on the next engine start.Overkill? maybe, but overkill is underated anyway. My motors last longer as a result of the extra work.        
On December 3, 2018 at 3:28 PM fubog1 via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote: I routinely cut the spin-on filters open for inspection, street and race cars.There's a purpose-made cutter available nowadays, it's just a big tubing cutter.My procedure is to cut off the end, remove the element, strip the hardware off of it and cut the ends off with a sharp blade. Then stretch out the element dirty (outside) up on a couple layers of paper towels and weight the ends so that it lays flat.Leave it overnight so that the oil soaks out of it and you'll be able to see any trash very clearly in the folds.You'll also be amazed at how little filter material is in some filters eg fram...NAPA Gold/WIX seem to be the best.Glen    -----Original Message----- 
From: robert bownes <bownes at web9.com> 
To: Rocky Entriken <rocky at spitfire4.com> 
Cc: britcars <britcars at bellsouth.net>; fubog1 <fubog1 at aol.com>; vfracing <vfracing at aol.com>; FOT <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2018 4:45 pm 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Oil Cooler or Oil filter first? After cleaning out a filter that survived a bad bearing in my 1147 Spit (Back in the Day) and re-using it (It was after the filter), the next engine lasted a whole 22 minutes, about 3 sessions short of a race weekend, before the very same failure occurred. I've never re-used a cooler since.   But I do have a stack of 3 or 4 for anyone who wants one. :)  I miss that car. But not the grenades that it kept under the hood.        On Mon, Dec 3, 2018 at 4:20 PM Rocky Entriken via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> wrote: 
Any bad stuff in the oil lines is gonna originate in the engine, so make the filter the first stop (and usually the shortest line). Then the cooler. And what nobody else mentioned, a check valve after the cooler before it goes back to the engine (keeps oil from flowing backwards into cooler, say on start-up.) My Accusump is plumbed into a Tee that’s just before the engine inlet – what goes to the Accusump is filtered and cooled oil, and what comes from the Accusump goes only to the engine because the check valve prevents it going the other way. And yeah, coolers are cheap. If I’m concerned I’ll flush out the lines (self-service car wash does the trick, use high-pressure rinse), but buy a new cooler. --Rocky From: barry rosenberg via FotSent: Monday, December 3, 2018 7:27 AMTo: fubog1 ; Phil GottCc: fot at autox.team.netSubject: Re: [Fot] Oil Cooler or Oil filter first?  Yes, filter first. But what I have run into on some customers cars is the way the cooler lines run. Most coolers are mounted with the fittings on top. This does not permit the cooler to drain and when you change your oil, the cooler retains the old oil. You have to remove the cooler and at least one line to drain the old oil out. Try to set your cooler a little high with the fitting on the bottom so it can self drain. Of course, this means you must pre-lube the engine before startup. I also set my cooler behind the radiator and not in front. NASCAR experts say that the closer the oil and water temp are to each other, the better.  Barry On Monday, December 3, 2018, 8:02:15 AM EST, Phil Gott via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> wrote:  Filter first. Keeps the crud out of the cooker. Coolers are hard to clean. Good thought By Glen to replace the cooker on engine refreshing. With a cooler in the system, also a good idea to prelube the engine with an Accusump upon cold start. Oil cooler lines are long and may drain upon standing a while. Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 3, 2018, at 7:02 AM, fubog1 via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> wrote: 
I typically run an inspectable (Oberg) out of the engine before the cooler, and a second filter after the cooler.It may be overkill but it eliminates the possibility of oil cooler trash getting in the engine.I also replace the cooler @ every engine freshen-up.Glen  -----Original Message----- 
From: Bud Rolofson via Fot < fot at autox.team.net>-To: FOT < fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2018 2:51 am 
Subject: [Fot] Oil Cooler or Oil filter first? Listerati,  For those of you running a remote oil cooler and remote oil filter do you run the hose coming OUT of the engine into the cooler first or the filter first? Just wanted to see how and why (if there’s a reason) most run their lines.  Thanks Bud _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1@aol.com  

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