[Fot] To scroll or not to scroll

[Dean Tetterton]

Fit the flywheel to the crank before putting the crank in
the block. Use the bolts you plan to use. If they are too long,
file them flush. Stand the crank up on the work bench with the
flywheel down.  A nice flat file should be in every tool box.

First day in mechanist class they give you a flat file and a
1.125 block of mild steel. Give it back to them 1.00 and
still square. Days before CNC...

Dean T.



On Jan 28, 2014, at 6:49 PM, John Styduhar wrote:

> The biggest fear I have is with the flywheel bolts ripping into the seal if
they are too long.  Anyone have problems with ARP 206-2802 flywheel fasteners
and stock or aftermarket flywheels?
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 6:42 PM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
> I suspect that if your name is Hardy, Glenn or Dean, your engines won't leak
regardless of the seal you use. OEM, Rover, or Chris'.
>
> Chris' is kind of belt and suspenders, but still won't cure leaks due to
assembly errors elsewhere or excessive blow by.
>
> I do like the idea of not removing the scroll from the crank and I have had
a long association with Viton seals as used in John Deere tractors.
>
> Joe Alexander
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, IA 50648
> The-vintage-racer.com
> Gasketinnovations.com
> Cell:  319.464.4711
>
> > On Jan 28, 2014, at 5:34 PM, Dean Tetterton <tr3a58 at verizon.net> wrote:
> >
> > I have used three of these in street engines I have built. All are
running
> > with no leaks. Right now I wouldn't use any thing else.
> >
> > Dean T.
> >
> >
> >> On Jan 28, 2014, at 4:33 PM, John Styduhar wrote:
> >>
> >> I need some feedback from racers or engine builders on their experience
> >> with either of the two aftermarket rear main seal kits for the TR3-4
> >> engine.  The bottom line price is about the same and my only experience
is
> >> with the kit that requires scroll removal and rear main cap
modification.
> >> No leaks after one racing season.
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