[Fot] To scroll or not to scroll

[Joe Alexander]

Yes, the length of the bolt is critical. Replacement bolts are frequently too
long and have to be ground back.


Joe Alexander
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA 50648
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com
Cell:  319.464.4711

> On Jan 28, 2014, at 5:49 PM, John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The biggest fear I have is with the flywheel bolts ripping into the seal if
they are too long.  Anyone have problems with ARP 206-2802 flywheel fasteners
and stock or aftermarket flywheels?
>
>
>> On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 6:42 PM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>> I suspect that if your name is Hardy, Glenn or Dean, your engines won't
leak regardless of the seal you use. OEM, Rover, or Chris'.
>>
>> Chris' is kind of belt and suspenders, but still won't cure leaks due to
assembly errors elsewhere or excessive blow by.
>>
>> I do like the idea of not removing the scroll from the crank and I have had
a long association with Viton seals as used in John Deere tractors.
>>
>> Joe Alexander
>> 645 1st Street
>> Jesup, IA 50648
>> The-vintage-racer.com
>> Gasketinnovations.com
>> Cell:  319.464.4711
>>
>> > On Jan 28, 2014, at 5:34 PM, Dean Tetterton <tr3a58 at verizon.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > I have used three of these in street engines I have built. All are
running
>> > with no leaks. Right now I wouldn't use any thing else.
>> >
>> > Dean T.
>> >
>> >
>> >> On Jan 28, 2014, at 4:33 PM, John Styduhar wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I need some feedback from racers or engine builders on their experience
>> >> with either of the two aftermarket rear main seal kits for the TR3-4
>> >> engine.  The bottom line price is about the same and my only experience
is
>> >> with the kit that requires scroll removal and rear main cap
modification.
>> >> No leaks after one racing season.
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