[Fot] Low cars and trailers
Scott Janzen
sjanzen at me.com
Thu Jul 26 09:06:02 MDT 2012
Bud, you haven't said whether you want an enclosed trailer or an open trailer - makes a difference on some of these questions.
Basically, you want to buy something that is designed as a car trailer, so that it has the dovetail design to ease the entrance angle transition. Once you get that, there shouldn't be a clearance issue. People make it work with flat trailers but if you are buying one there's no point in compromising on this as there's usually not a cost difference.
I think torsion bar/load leveling hitches are hugely beneficial with an enclosed trailer, having towed without one for years and now using one. Shouldn't be needed on a lightweight open trailer with most tow vehicles. I think you'll end up with a single electrical connection for brakes/lights.
If you are not in a rush, go to the next local race event - SCCA or vintage - and walk the paddock to see what people are using. Shop around a lot as new trailer prices vary widely. I love my aluminum Worthington trailer, but a great basic trailer is Haulmark. Go for the best quality you can afford as you'll probably live with it for 20 years.
On Jul 26, 2012, at 10:54 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote:
I believe my trailer is this one without the side rails.
http://www.carsontrailer.com/subs/atv-trailers/atv-utility-trailer/utility-2-axles/utility-2-axles.html
Charly Mitchel
Mitchel Plumbing Co.
253-572-1150
charly at mitchelplumbing.com
www.mitchelplumbing.com
----- Original Message ----- From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>; "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2012 7:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Low cars and trailers
> Bud, I haul a TR6 racecar on a flat trailer and my car has probably only 3
> inches of ground clearance. I use 8 foot 2X12 wood planks to drive it up
> on. It is important how you have the truck and trailer situated and I
> always look to have the truck higher than the trailer, enabling a bit of
> tilt on the trailer. I have never scraped or come close to scraping.
> My trailer is a totally flat trailer and is very light weight. The trailer
> and car weigh less than 3000 lbs. I tow it with a LR3, and last trip of
> about 300 miles, I averaged 18mpg, compared to when I hauled a cargo trailer
> of the same weight and got 12 mpg. My trailer has 2 axels and tows very
> nicely, I have towed it at 80+ mph, but usually tow at around 70mph.
> I don't have a winch, hand or electric and usually drive the car on the
> trailer. I sometimes push it on the trailer, with some help of course. I
> prefer a single plug, it makes it easier.
> I've attached a picture from several years ago and this is not my current
> tow rig.
>
> Charly Mitchel
> TR6 #44
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
> To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 5:15 PM
> Subject: [Fot] Low cars and trailers
>
>
>> I'm thinking about buying a trailer and wondered what kinds of things I
>> should be looking for when it comes to getting a lowered car (4.5 inches
>> of clearance for my TR6) onto a trailer without dragging. Dovetailed
>> trailer, length of ramps, tilt bed, height of trailer from ground?
>> Looking for things to avoid and desirable features. How often is a winch
>> needed? Is a sway bar control necessary? Should electric brake and light
>> hookups be separate or one plug? Other than just trying it to see or
>> using geometry is there an index or way to figure what the ramp length
>> needs to be?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> levilevi at comcast.net
>> _______________________________________________
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>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 287.jpg]
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