[Fot] Need to figure out why my clutch stopped working...

[sherry robyn]

Checked the end float and that looks OK too.  I got .010" of movement but my
indicator was at a 20 degree angle one way and 5 or so the other.  If that
sounds OK then the only thing I can put the failure to is the pressure plate. 
It was the older style B&B with very little wear on the fingers from the T O
bearing.  If it was something to do with the adjustment of the clutch rod (I
don't believe it was), then that will be rectified when I set everything back
up.

Would anyone else be inclined to leave in the existing T O bearing since
those 
Koyos have their problems too?

Thanks again for the help.

Jim
________________________________
From: Duncan Charlton
<duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
To: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
Cc:
FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, October 17, 2011 3:12:05 PM
Subject: Re:
[Fot] Need to figure out why my clutch stopped working...

Jim,

Sounds like
the clutch was dragging on the flywheel while the pedal was 
depressed, but
your examination of the parts doesn't explain why.  Best guess I 
have is that
the clutch travel was limited somehow.  Any chance their was air in 
the
system?  How much downward pedal travel was there before you could feel
resistance?  I assume on a TR6 you'd want some free play at the top of the
pedal 
travel.  How far from the floor did the pedal rise before the clutch
started to 
engage, when it was working properly?  Anything out of the normal
range suggests 
a geometry problem since the hydraulic clutch should
self-adjust.

Are you reusing the same pressure plate?  A few years back our
Morgan Plus 8's 
clutch was slipping badly in 3rd and 4th gear.  I was
surprised to find that the 
friction disc looked very good.  The pressure
plate likely had a lot of miles on 
it (189,000 miles were put on the car by
the PO before I got it...) and the 
diaphragm spring apparently no longer
created the original clamping force.  A 
new pressure plate made all the
difference (although it looked perfectly good, I 
had the driven plate
re-lined while I was at it since that size is obsolete and 
the TR4 unit used
by many is 1/2" smaller).  In all the clutch jobs I'd done 
this was the first
time I'd seen a slippage problem caused by the pressure plate 
getting weak.
Duncan
(Texas)

1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red

On Oct 17, 2011, at 1:42 PM, sherry
robyn wrote:

> so I don't put it back together and have the same problem.  
>
> The story is
> that I had never been into the clutch.  I only knew that the
PO 
> raced the 74
> TR6.  I autocrosses, and a hillclimb for the next couple
of years 
> with no
> problem.  Then at the tail end of this season at an
autocross, I could 
> smell
> my clutch after a run and it didn't want to go
into gear.  Double 
> clutching
> could get it to go.  There never had been
the typical TR6 problems 
> such as
> stiff clutch pedal, etc.
> 
> After
breaking it open, I find little wear on the
> spring fingers, a disk 
>
measuring appx. .290 in thickness, and all linkage
> even though plenty dirty
> functioning soundly.  The slave and master of the
> clutch is not losing
fluid, 
> and there is an adjustabe clutch rod that was in
> the middle hole
of the 
> engage/disengage lever that is only minimally worn
> oversize.
> 
>
I am putting in a new clutch, but at this point, I can't see what
> caused my
> failure in the first place.  Don't want to wrap it all up and have
> the
same 
> problem.
> 
> Thanks for any assistance, Jim
>
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