[Fot] Need to figure out why my clutch stopped working...

[Bill Babcock]

Is the master cylinder original or aftermarket? Some aftermarket master
cylinders have residual pressure valves built into them, if you're going to
use them for a clutch you need to remove it.

On Oct 17, 2011, at 3:12 PM, Duncan Charlton wrote:

> Jim,
>
> Sounds like the clutch was dragging on the flywheel while the pedal was
> depressed, but your examination of the parts doesn't explain why.  Best
guess
> I have is that the clutch travel was limited somehow.  Any chance their was
> air in the system?  How much downward pedal travel was there before you
could
> feel resistance?  I assume on a TR6 you'd want some free play at the top of
> the pedal travel.  How far from the floor did the pedal rise before the
clutch
> started to engage, when it was working properly?  Anything out of the
normal
> range suggests a geometry problem since the hydraulic clutch should
> self-adjust.
>
> Are you reusing the same pressure plate?  A few years back our Morgan Plus
8's
> clutch was slipping badly in 3rd and 4th gear.  I was surprised to find
that
> the friction disc looked very good.  The pressure plate likely had a lot of
> miles on it (189,000 miles were put on the car by the PO before I got
it...)
> and the diaphragm spring apparently no longer created the original clamping
> force.  A new pressure plate made all the difference (although it looked
> perfectly good, I had the driven plate re-lined while I was at it since
that
> size is obsolete and the TR4 unit used by many is 1/2" smaller).  In all
the
> clutch jobs I'd done this was the first time I'd seen a slippage problem
> caused by the pressure plate getting weak.
>
> Duncan
> (Texas)
>
> 1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red
>
> On Oct 17, 2011, at 1:42 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
>
>> so I don't put it back together and have the same problem.
>>
>> The story is
>> that I had never been into the clutch.  I only knew that the PO
>> raced the 74
>> TR6.  I autocrosses, and a hillclimb for the next couple of years
>> with no
>> problem.  Then at the tail end of this season at an autocross, I could
>> smell
>> my clutch after a run and it didn't want to go into gear.  Double
>> clutching
>> could get it to go.  There never had been the typical TR6 problems
>> such as
>> stiff clutch pedal, etc.
>>
>> After breaking it open, I find little wear on the
>> spring fingers, a disk
>> measuring appx. .290 in thickness, and all linkage
>> even though plenty dirty
>> functioning soundly.  The slave and master of the
>> clutch is not losing fluid,
>> and there is an adjustabe clutch rod that was in
>> the middle hole of the
>> engage/disengage lever that is only minimally worn
>> oversize.
>>
>> I am putting in a new clutch, but at this point, I can't see what
>> caused my
>> failure in the first place.  Don't want to wrap it all up and have
>> the same
>> problem.
>>
>> Thanks for any assistance, Jim
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