[Roadsters] out of hibernation part II Transmission

[peter harrison]

Re - Removing the engine
Get PLENTY of PLASTIC baggies - sandwich size and gallon size, plus index
cards or post-it notes and one or two medium size containers.
WHen you remove ANYTHING - put it in a baggie and mark it with contents and a
sequential number  and put it in the container ins that order. when you come
to reassemble, you will put things back in reverse order
NOTE_ it is not typically necessary to remove carbs, starter,manifold etc.
Disconnect battery and remove
Drain engine oil - other wise it will leak out of the back
Drain coolant.
Disconnect
reverse switch wires from transmission
drive shaft - handy to make a note (using a punch) to insure all is realigned
to original spots
speedo (small tab held by 10mm nut) - remove by twisting anticlockwise
all ground wires
starter motor
alternator
throttle cables including choke
fuel line (intake to the pump)
all hoses at engine side (note - good idea to replace the two SHORT hoses
between the intake manifold and block and at the rear where the heater stop
cock is. They are  impossible to replace without major fuss later on.

remove
fan - loosen shroud first (10 mm bolts)
shroud
radiator (you should be able to retain the upper radiator mount attached to
the radiator)
washer bottle (not vital - but gets  in the way)
alternator (gives better access to the engine mounts)
disconnect engine mounts - note that the front mount bolt is captive whereas
the rear is bolt/nut (good ides to chase them before reinstall  - saves a lot
of wrenching
6 bolts holding the transmission to the cross member
2 bolts holding the retaining mouint to the actual mount
2 bolts holding the mount to the transmission.

shift lever (easier if you remove the shift plate) the shift lever has a bevel
(13mm) at base of lever with a retaining nylock underneath)

Oil line (lower down on passenger side) - you have to unlock from the mount
(pull retaining clip) before unscrewing from the engine.

Disconnect tach cable
Disconnect the small line from the distributor
disconnect all ignition/coil wires

You will need an engine hoist - the engine comes standard with a loop attached
to rear engine bolt on drivers side and another at head front on passenger
side.

Ideally (for me at least) an engine leveler is usefull.General idea is to lift
engine up and then tilt upwards such that there is an approximate 45 angle
going forwards - make sure you don't hook into the throttle lever.

Just be gentle and watch for things catching on the frame.

Good luck


Depending upon when they were last replaced and current condition - replace
Clutch - suggest 2 litre clutch plate.
throwout bearing
front/rear transmission seals
pressure plate

check/rebuild clutch slave


Peter Harrison
818 448 3181


> Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 15:59:21 -0700
> From: twokeelya at gmail.com
> To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] out of hibernation part II Transmission
>
> thanks for all the tips, yes, inline fuel filter clogged, I'm going to have
> to drain the tank because it clogged up the new one too. The fuel gauge had
> slightly oxidized  contacts, I sanded them lightly, tightened up the
> connectors and works perfectly. Headlights same thing, I sanded the fuse
> contacts and they work, I even have a horn. Now, it won't shift into fourth
> gear, goes in, but pops out. I'm sure from all the play in the gearbox that
> it needs rebuilding, I've been putting that off hoping it would fix itself
> (yeah right). SO....now i need help with removing the engine and am looking
> for tips from you masters.I've pulled several mustang and Chevy camero
> motors, but never a Datsun.  Thanks in advance from your ever so humble
> learner....
> Richard
> 67 SRL529
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