[Roadsters] grounding the gauge voltage regulator

[Pat Horne]

Dave,

Thanks for your comment. I know that when I need help, with vehicles or 
other things the lists are my best resource, so I feel that since I am 
blessed with electrical knowledge, I need to help out.

Since you built a regulator that works, you don't have to do this test, 
but I just wanted to get it into the archives.

If you suspect the instrument regulator is bad you can connect the two 
leads that go to the regulator together and both instruments should read 
higher than they should. This at least shows that the instruments, 
senders and wiring is good and that the problem is actually with the 
regulator. I had an instrument regulator go out years ago and I found 
that the problem was with the rivets that go through the bottom plate of 
the regulator to connect the internals to the terminals. Since 
everything was brass, or at least solderable, I cleaned both ends of the 
rivets and soldered them up. Problem solved. Using the solder as a 
structural connection isn't the best idea, I should have run small wires 
in and soldered them to both sides.

Thusly spake D Riedel

> Thanks Pat,
>
> ...before I say anything, I want to thank Pat for all his years of 
> offering Roadster wisdom.  I come and go from this group, but every 
> time I come back, Pat is still there helping out.  Thank you, Mr. 
> Horne, this community is very fortunate to have you.
>
> The star washer was a great idea- it clearly bites into the metal 
> nicely.  However, it failed to solve my problem.  Detaching the VR 
> from the column and independently grounding didn't work either so it 
> would seem that it's intermittent, at best. I opened it up and cleaned 
> the area where it grounds to the case, but still no luck.  The wrapped 
> heater wire is quite brown, and the connections show a lot of 
> corrosion.  I suppose I could try bypassing the spade connectors and 
> clip directly to the interior parts just to see if the posts are the 
> problem...
>
> Meanwhile, I threw together the LM7808 IC solution and got 'almost' 
> correct readings - the voltage across the solid-state VR was ~10V w/ 
> the alternator running and 9.4V with the car off.  Not sure how that 
> happens with an 8V ss reg...  I know that the original VR are 
> temperature compensated.  Is the solid-state device THAT sensitive to 
> temp?  It was only around 23C when I was testing it.
>
> -dave
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 3:56 PM, Pat Horne <pat at hornesystemstx.com 
> <mailto:pat at hornesystemstx.com>> wrote:
>
>     You might try removing the dielectric grease, it isn't needed, and
>     put a star lock washer between the regulator mounting tab and the
>     steering column. You can also use a volt meter to verify that the
>     regulator is grounded.
>     Also remember that the two wires connecting to the regulator have
>     to be on the correct terminals. If they are backwards the gauges
>     will indicate something, then drop to zero, not to read anything
>     until the key is turned off and the regulator cooled down.
>
>     Peace
>     Pat
>     -- 
>     Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
>     (512) 797-7501 <tel:%28512%29%20797-7501> Voice & Text   5026 FM 2001
>     Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com  Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
>     www.hornesystemstx.com <http://www.hornesystemstx.com>
>     -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Dave Riedel
> '69 2000
> Victoria, BC

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --