[Roadsters] question on power to the rear end

[Ronnie Day]

Mark,

Understand that the 9 inch would probably be overkill. My basic point was
that there realistic and cheaper alternatives to the OEM bits. In the 510
world we're rapidly gettting to the point where a lot of parts are NLA.
Something that we've dealt with on roadsters for some time. As soon as we
get moved and get our shop built (sometime this summer) I'm going to start
looking for a nice 280Z that I can restify. At least body parts and such are
still available through Black Dragon and other sources.

Ron

On Tue, Jan 26, 2010 at 2:16 PM, Mark Sedlack msedlack at neo.rr.com



> I've got a Ford 8.8 LSD axle in our '66 with a 4.3 Chevy V6 engine that's
> mildly built (approx 250HP). A 9" would be overkill and a bunch of extra,
> uneeded weight IMHO.
>
> There's a printable sketch on my website that has all the dimensions I gave
> to a reputed local shop to rework a stock Mustang housing so it would bolt
> right in to the Roadster.
>
> I cut off all the mustang mounting brackets and did some grinding to give
> him a smooth housing to cut down.   He did the narrowing, added new perches,
> and set up the 3:73 ring & pinion for around $700 IIRC.  The used axle I got
> for somewhere around $100.
>
> Direct to the page on the axle is 5-18-03 Axle, Engine,Tranny
> Or you can go to the main page and use the links in the left frame to
> peruse to whole project.
> http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
>
> I had Moser shorten and respline my stock  Mustang axles.  I also had them
> redrill for the lug bolt pattern, and press in new studs for $200 or so.
> http://www.moserengineering.com/all-moser-order-forms-and-instructions.html
>
> So I've got about $1000 in Ford 8.8LSD with all new bearing, clutches,
> truck S-spring, etc. with me doing some of the grunt work.