[Roadsters] Oil pan gasket

[Daryl Smith]

Continuing from what Gordon has said, I had (?) an oil leak from the front 
of the engine due to a timing cover which hung down about .010" - .012" from 
the rest of the sealing surface. Doesn't seem like much, but was enough to 
create a problem.

Daryl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow at comcast.net>


> 3.5 ft/lb of torque on those.
>
> One area that I learned to check to avoid leaks is the rear main bearing
> cap. This forms part of the mating surface for the pan. If the block has
> been align-bored during the rebuild process, this can cause that surface 
> to
> sit further up into the block than the rest of the pan mating surface,
> especially if this has been done more than once. On one engine I had to 
> cut
> a short piece of thin gasket material to fill the gap in order to stop a
> leak.
>
> There's plenty of difference of opinion about gasket sealant yes/no, but I
> like to use a *very thin* coating of Hylomar on any non-machined surfaces
> like the oil pan, thermostat housing, etc.
>
> Gordon Glasgow

> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
>
> I don't know if this is the "correct" method, but when I built my stroker
> motor, I used a new cork gasket, new lock washers, and no gasket sealer.
> After installing the bolts, I worked my way around the pan multiple times,
> tightening to spec each time (I think 12lbs, but don't quote me on that).
> No
> leaks so far.
>
> Jeremy Mayne
>
> 70 SPL stroker (sadly unused right now)
>

>
>> From: stebharvey at ameritech.net
>>
>> Group,
>>
>> Can someone provide insight into the correct method for installing a new
> oil
>> pan gasket on a 1600 engine? Also, is it true that the same gasket can be
>> used on the 1600 and 2000 engine?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Steve Harvey