[Roadsters] Distributor work

[Pete Peters]

You do realize you replaced a non-smog advance curve distributor (the '66)
with a smog advance curve distributor (the '70), or does "...including the
weights and springs" means you put the '66 non-smog weights and springs into
the '70 smog dizzy?

Non-smog: 7.5, which produces 15 degrees of advance
Smog: 17.5, which produces 35 degrees of advance

More info in the 311s.org TechWiki:

<http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.DistributorTroubleS
hootingByGaryBoone>

I'll let the dizzy guru's chime in with more.

Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Kersch
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 10:22 AM
To: datsun-roadsters @autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] Distributor work

I replaced the original 66 distributor with one from a 1970, including the
weights and springs. Specs say mechanical advance begins below 500rpm and is
full out at 1800 Rpm, no way will our cars idle at 500. So when I first
start the car after a bunch of work on the carbs etc it idled at 1000. So is
it best to set my timing light for basic+full mechanical advance (10+7.5) at
2000 rpm?
And then add vac advance to timing light and goose the throttle?

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