[Roadsters] False economy, clutch pedal height and feel

[O'Farrell, Fergus]

Some know that in the last 2 months, every time I took the roadster out
for a long drive I ended up driving the last 4 blocks-4 miles with no
clutch.
First, the slave cylinder seals sang their last, and in replacing it I
must have given the flex line a twist that 20 years in the same position
couldn't endure, so that got replaced.  Then, on the way home from the
weigh-in with Eric's 302 roadster, the clutch master started puking its
contents all over my floormats. (went thru a quart bottle and a half on
the way home, that constitutes a flushed sytem, yes?)
So, I found that Pep Boyz stocks the clutch master (a Beck-Arnley part
no.) so I ordered one thru them.  After their 3-5 business days pass,
they tell me it is on backorder and they have no idea when the
distributor will have them again.  After giving them a bit of an earful,
the guy tells me he'll call around, and calls me back in 20 minutes
saying he'll have one there the enxt afternoon.
When I get it, it says "Centric" parts on the box, isn't a Nabco
cylinder, says "made in taiwan" on the box....... Uhhh, great..... But
all the fittings are in the correct locations, correct sized flare
fitting receptacles (verified that with my bench bleeder tubes), so
everything seems okay except the adjustable pushrod, already set at its
shortest position, is ~ 1/4-3/8" too long.

I installed it, and it functions fine, except for the following:
1. This pushrod length difference has caused is the clutch pedal
position to be what feels like is 3" higher up than before.  (used to be
gas pedal 'here", both brake and clutch about 1.5" higher than "here".
Now my knee almost hits the steering wheel every time I shift.
2.  The clutch pedal will go all the way to the floor, but releases in
the last 1-2" of the TOP of the pedal swing.  I probably don't have to
push it all the way to the floor, but I don't feel comfortable
experimenting how much shorter, as that is just an audible lesson in
"grindage". I think this is due to the adjustment of the slave pushrod,
correct? As I move its adjustment it should take up more slack in the
throwout bearing arm / pressure plate, which should move the clutch
actuation point to a more conventional place in the pedal travel.

So in terms of #1, do I remove all the shims from my brake master (some
thick ones, probably 1/8" total stack) and move them to the clutch
master, to try and lower the pedal? (which would also raise the brake
pedal level a bit)

Moral of the story:  buy the parts from vendors, clutch masters are
being outsourced.
And/or the parts listing is assuming the clutch master for a ??? (80's
210? 'cept that would have metric line fittings) has enough adjustment
to be listed for roadsters, which ain't the case.

Fergus O, 69 200, HB, CA