[6pack] Rear tube shock conversion

[DAVID MASSEY]

 Well, yeah!  The factory should have done it this way from the start.  It would be consistent with the front suspension design.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Luichinger <luichinger at comcast.net>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 11:22 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion

Has anyone tried Ratco’s coil over shock conversion.  It seems to be the right way to do this type of conversion. 

Sent from my iPad

On May 11, 2020, at 8:24 AM, DAVID MASSEY via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:



 There are several tube shock conversion kits out there and there are several significant differences.  I know of three styles:
#1 A simple bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well.  This one is evil.  This kit transfers all the shock loading to the bodywork which was not designed to this and will suffer for it.  Avoid at all costs.
#2 Multi-piece.  This has a series of three brackets on each side.  There is a bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well as in the on above but it also bolts up to another bracket in the recess by the gas tank which mounts up to yet another bracket that bolts up to the mount for the lever shock.  This kit transfers the shock loading to the frame point that was designed for it.  The down side is there are six pieces requiring 16 new holes in the bodywork and the brackets are bulky.  I removed mine after I found the tire on one side was rubbing against the bracket in the wheel well.
#3 single bracket direct to the frame.  This part is unique in its appearance in that it has a serpentine shape, mounts to the frame where the lever shock mounts and reaches up to accept the top of the shock.  It has been said that this bracket will crack the frame since it has a long lever arm and could apply additional torque to the mount.  But a quick vector analysis indicates that the forces are parallel to the long axis of the bracket and the loading on the frame will be not significantly different that those applied by the original lever shock.  The TR6 frame is infamous for having weak spots but the shock mount is not one of them.  The differential mount certainly is and 40 year old frames tend to experience cracking regardless of what shock system is used.
I've used #2 and #3 and, more recently, switched back to lever shocks re-valved by World Wide Auto Parts and find this a good solution for street use.  I suppose I could have tried a series of telescopic shocks with #3 but having other irons in the fire I did not pursue that approach. 

Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Yahoo via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 10, 2020 11:12 pm
Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion

An old topic,  but came up recently from the mgb side of my club     john twist of university motors has a video cautioning folks with this mod on their b to check the bolts on their conversion brackets.   I checked this on my 6 and all 4 bolts were nicely tight after many years. Also, no frame cracking that I could see.    After some of the horror storis about this conversion,   I might not do it again Cheers   bruce simms


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