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<div> <font size="3">Well, yeah! The factory should have done it this way from the start. It would be consistent with the front suspension design.</font><br>
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<div style="clear:both"><font size="4">Dave </font><br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Mark Luichinger <luichinger@comcast.net><br>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com><br>
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 11:22 am<br>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion<br>
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<div>Has anyone tried Ratco’s coil over shock conversion. It seems to be the right way to do this type of conversion. <br clear="none"><br clear="none">
<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPad</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br clear="none"><blockquote type="cite">On May 11, 2020, at 8:24 AM, DAVID MASSEY via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:<br clear="none"><br clear="none"></blockquote></div>
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<div> <font size="3">There are several tube shock conversion kits out there and there are several significant differences. I know of three styles:</font></div>
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<div><font size="3">#1 A simple bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well. This one is evil. This kit transfers all the shock loading to the bodywork which was not designed to this and will suffer for it. Avoid at all costs.</font></div>
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<div><font size="3">#2 Multi-piece. This has a series of three brackets on each side. There is a bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well as in the on above but it also bolts up to another bracket in the recess by the gas tank which mounts up to yet another bracket that bolts up to the mount for the lever shock. This kit transfers the shock loading to the frame point that was designed for it. The down side is there are six pieces requiring 16 new holes in the bodywork and the brackets are bulky. I removed mine after I found the tire on one side was rubbing against the bracket in the wheel well.</font></div>
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<div><font size="3">#3 single bracket direct to the frame. This part is unique in its appearance in that it has a serpentine shape, mounts to the frame where the lever shock mounts and reaches up to accept the top of the shock. It has been said that this bracket will crack the frame since it has a long lever arm and could apply additional torque to the mount. But a quick vector analysis indicates that the forces are parallel to the long axis of the bracket and the loading on the frame will be not significantly different that those applied by the original lever shock. The TR6 frame is infamous for having weak spots but the shock mount is not one of them. The differential mount certainly is and 40 year old frames tend to experience cracking regardless of what shock system is used.</font></div>
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<div><font size="3">I've used #2 and #3 and, more recently, switched back to lever shocks re-valved by World Wide Auto Parts and find this a good solution for street use. I suppose I could have tried a series of telescopic shocks with #3 but having other irons in the fire I did not pursue that approach. <br clear="none">
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<div style="clear:both;"><font size="4">Dave </font><br clear="none">
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<div style="font-family:arial, helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black;">-----Original Message-----<br clear="none">
From: Yahoo via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net><br clear="none">
To: 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net><br clear="none">
Sent: Sun, May 10, 2020 11:12 pm<br clear="none">
Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion<br clear="none">
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<div id="yiv5645220750">An old topic, but came up recently from the mgb side of my club john twist of university motors has a video cautioning folks with this mod on their b to check the bolts on their conversion brackets. I checked this on my 6 and all 4 bolts were nicely tight after many years. Also, no frame cracking that I could see. After some of the horror storis about this conversion, I might not do it again
<div id="yiv5645220750yMail_cursorElementTracker_1589170186222">Cheers bruce simms<br clear="none">
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