[6pack] PDW Switch

[Timothy Holbrook]

 blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px #715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white !important; } Why is it a bad idea to remove the PDWA? Does it serve any purpose other than to inform the driver of the obvious "you've just lost half your brakes"? 
My understanding is that PDWA simply provides a ground for the warning bulb, such that it illuminates when you've had a sudden loss in either the front or rear brakes. It won't provide any help though, right?  I doubt the driver will even notice that the light has illuminated, he/she will be too busy looking for a safe way to bring the car to a stop! 
Tim Holbrook1971 TR6



On Thursday, June 1, 2017, 6:55 PM, Bud Rolofson via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:

The switch doesn’t actually (and was not intended to) seal anything in the PDWA, the o-rings on the barbells internally seal the fluid in the PDWA. Replace those and center the barbell and the switch should be fine. I have the o-rings (not the cupped version) for the PDWA, send me an address and I’ll mail you some. Oh and I would NOT eliminate the PDWA unless you have the worlds best emergency brake, and then even then probably not.
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
On May 31, 2017, at 3:40 PM, Alex&Janet Thomson via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:

Lists – I know I saw some discussion several months back about repairing/replacing the brake Pressure Differential Warning switch. Naturally, it was not an issue with me then and I didn’t save the responses. At any rate, there is brake fluid leaking out of the actual switch that screws into the PDW block. I noticed that Moss has new ones (aluminum) for $439 and repair kits for the older brass units (such as ours) for $13. Any thoughts on the best avenue to take? Has anyone simply eliminated the assembly and connected the brake lines with couplings, front-to-front and back-to-back? The subject is a ’73 TR6. Thanks.  Alex Thomson _______________________________________________
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