[6pack] Nissan LSD conversion question

[Bud Rolofson]

Mike,

I never had a lurching problem with my LSD (with or without the CV  
axles), but I don't have a upgraded cam.  I think I'd read the plugs  
or use a colortune to see what's going on with the combustion.  It may  
just be the lope of the cam.  I can't imagine you'd get lurching from  
the LSD mounts or the trailing arm material not being as recommended,  
there doesn't seem to be that much play in the system to me.

Re: Richard Good's Note:  I was one of those whose snap ring  
disengaged.  Happened on a Rio Grande Rendezvous trip to Silver City  
NM.  I had to dodge a piece of firewood on Raton Pass and I think it  
pulled on the snap ring but not fully out.  Going around a mountain  
switchback 300 miles later pulled it out completely though and I was  
dead in the water.  Got towed by the one of the nicest people  
ever...trip took 3 hours to go about 50 miles down a mountain pass  
with my 6 on a tow truck.  Our tow driver took us to get something to  
eat (this was 7 hours after the breakdown), took us to our hotel,  
found and fixed the problem at his shop the next morning and came and  
got me at the hotel at noon the next day.  Charged me $150 plus the  
tow charge.  Got the Broken Spoke award for that adventure.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jun 23, 2011, at 11:47 AM, michael lunsford wrote:

> I have Richard Good's Nissan Differential upgrade with a Q-45  
> differential in
> my
> TR6.  I have what seems to be driveline slop that results in a severe
> lurching at low RPMs around town.  I reenforced the differential  
> mounts and
> recently inspected them and don't think that is the problem.  I have  
> re-tuned
> the carbs to try to eleminate lean mixture as the cause of the  
> lurching
> problem.  I have noted that per Richard's mounting instructions the  
> front
> mounting studs of the differential adaption kit just stick through  
> the holes
> in
> the front of the differential and are held on by large washers.   
> When on
> the Nissan there were metal/rubber mounts in these holes that  
> restricted the
> movement of the front of the differential.  Richard's instructions  
> say to
> remove
> the rubber/metal mounts which seems to leave a lot of room for
> movement up
> front.  Do I understand these instructions correctly?  Does
> anyone have
> any other suggestions regarding a cure for the lurch/clunk.
> Mike Lunsford
>
> PS:  I have Richard's S2 cam in my car also and I suspect that
> the lope from the
> cam is responsible for some of the lurching.
>
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