Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolant change

From: David Porter <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 07:40:08 -0700

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yes, it goes "bad". All (I think) contain lubricating agents which are 
important in the health of the pump. I would think every two years 
should be adequate. I have no opinion about waterless, though I suspect 
the "lubricating agent" still holds true. Ask the manufacturer. Most 
have lots of information on the web...
dave

On 11/5/2015 6:53 AM, Daniel White wrote:
> I've searched the archives looking for any discussion regarding how 
> often to change the coolant in the BN7.  If the answer is there...I 
> missed it.  I'm running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and tap water and it 
> tests o.k. as far as freeze protection.  This mix has been in the 
> system for a number of years.  Does coolant "go bad" with age?  Any 
> thoughts about the waterless coolant being sold on the market?
> Thanks,
> Dan White
> 1962 BN7 Mk II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

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    yes, it goes "bad". All (I think) contain lubricating agents which
    are important in the health of the pump. I would think every two
    years should be adequate. I have no opinion about waterless, though
    I suspect the "lubricating agent" still holds true. Ask the
    manufacturer. Most have lots of information on the web...<br>
    dave<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/5/2015 6:53 AM, Daniel White
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <div style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: #000000">
        <div>I've searched the archives looking for any discussion
          regarding how often to change the coolant in the BN7.  If the
          answer is there...I missed it.  I'm running a 50/50 mix of
          antifreeze and tap water and it tests o.k. as far as freeze
          protection.  This mix has been in the system for a number of
          years.  Does coolant "go bad" with age?  Any thoughts about
          the waterless coolant being sold on the market?<br>
        </div>
        <div>Thanks,<br>
        </div>
        <div>Dan White<br>
        </div>
        <div>1962 BN7 Mk II<br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
      Dave Porter
      Porter Custom Bicycles
      2909 Arno St. NE
      Albuquerque, NM 87107
      505-352-1378
      Go HERE: my world <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.porterbikes.com/">www.porterbikes.com/</a>
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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---

From: Richard Collins <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 15:05:13 +0000

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I am running the same
50/50 mix in my BN7 but am using distilled water in lieu of tap water. It h=
asn't been drained in a number of years except to fix a leak in the origina=
l still used radiator several years ago.
FYI my water cooled Porsches have coolant more than 5 years old and no issu=
e. I have captained large motor yachts and the multi gallonage coolant in t=
heir engines are seldom drained.
So age is not the issue IMO

Regards,
Richard Of Ky
BN7 #440

[email-masked]>> wrote:

I've searched the archives looking for any discussion regarding how often t=
o change the coolant in the BN7.  If the answer is there...I missed it.  I'=
m running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and tap water and it tests o.k. as far =
as freeze protection.  This mix has been in the system for a number of year=
s.  Does coolant "go bad" with age?  Any thoughts about the waterless coola=
nt being sold on the market?
Thanks,
Dan White
1962 BN7 Mk II
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]

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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"=
</head>
<body dir=3D"auto">
<div>I am running the same&nbsp;<br>
50/50 mix in my BN7 but am using distilled water in lieu of tap water. It h=
asn't been drained in a number of years except to fix a leak in the origina=
l still used radiator several years ago.</div>
<div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">FYI my water cooled Porsches have coolant mo=
re than 5 years old and no issue. I have captained large motor yachts and t=
he multi gallonage coolant in their engines are seldom drained.</div>
<div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">So age is not the issue IMO</div>
<div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><br>
</div>
<div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><br>
Regards,
<div>Richard Of Ky</div>
<div>BN7 #440</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div><br>
On Nov 5, 2015, at 08:24, Daniel White &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeydan@woww=
ay.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<div style=3D"font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif; font-si=
ze: 12pt; color: #000000">
<div>I've searched the archives looking for any discussion regarding how of=
ten to change the coolant in the BN7.&nbsp; If the answer is there...I miss=
ed it.&nbsp; I'm running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and tap water and it tes=
ts o.k. as far as freeze protection.&nbsp; This
 mix has been in the system for a number of years.&nbsp; Does coolant &quot=
;go bad&quot; with age?&nbsp; Any thoughts about the waterless coolant bein=
g sold on the market?<br>
</div>
<div>Thanks,<br>
</div>
<div>Dan White<br>
</div>
<div>1962 BN7 Mk II<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br>
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[email-masked]

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From: David Porter <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 08:40:57 -0700

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Richard,
  not to sound argumentative, but the seawater systems/heat exchangers 
or what ever name are vastly different systems, but the engines are 
still subject to the same conditions as our cars and preventative 
maintenance should be a higher priority in off shore capable boats. 
Those boats using fresh water systems are highly prone to coolant system 
issues too. Mostly due to different temps across the heads, but also 
lack of pump lubrication... IMHO
dp

On 11/5/2015 8:05 AM, Richard Collins wrote:
> I am running the same
> 50/50 mix in my BN7 but am using distilled water in lieu of tap water. 
> It hasn't been drained in a number of years except to fix a leak in 
> the original still used radiator several years ago.
> FYI my water cooled Porsches have coolant more than 5 years old and no 
> issue. I have captained large motor yachts and the multi gallonage 
> coolant in their engines are seldom drained.

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    Richard,<br>
     not to sound argumentative, but the seawater systems/heat
    exchangers or what ever name are vastly different systems, but the
    engines are still subject to the same conditions as our cars and
    preventative maintenance should be a higher priority in off shore
    capable boats. Those boats using fresh water systems are highly
    prone to coolant system issues too. Mostly due to different temps
    across the heads, but also lack of pump lubrication... IMHO<br>
    dp<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/5/2015 8:05 AM, Richard Collins
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <div>I am running the same <br>
        50/50 mix in my BN7 but am using distilled water in lieu of tap
        water. It hasn't been drained in a number of years except to fix
        a leak in the original still used radiator several years ago.</div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature">FYI my water cooled Porsches have
        coolant more than 5 years old and no issue. I have captained
        large motor yachts and the multi gallonage coolant in their
        engines are seldom drained.</div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature">So age is not the issue IMO</div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature"><br>
      </div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature"><br>
        Regards,
        <div>Richard Of Ky</div>
        <div>BN7 #440</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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[email-masked]

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From: Richard Collins <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 16:05:21 +0000

I don't disagree re boat engines which have more highly complex cooling systems as both the fresh and salt water systems require attendance far more frequently than cars. The freshwater side is less problematic than the saltwater side but there is no "best by" date to refresh or clean the myriad of pipes, tubes, pumps, filters  or liquids found on boats/yachts/ships cooling systems. The age of the fresh water cooling liquid is basically a non issue, just like with cars.
Having said that I did 2 yacht deliveries recently, one a twin engine Cat powered sport fisherman and the other a 55 foot sailboat powered by a single Perkins (both diesel). Both had cooling issues, not coolant related. As with our cars (and my Healey) it's the hardware causing the problem, not the liquid.
No argument with you, just my experience...

Regards,
Richard C

> On Nov 5, 2015, at 09:41, David Porter <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Richard,
>  not to sound argumentative, but the seawater systems/heat exchangers or what ever name are vastly different systems, but the engines are still subject to the same conditions as our cars and preventative maintenance should be a higher priority in off shore capable boats. Those boats using fresh water systems are highly prone to coolant system issues too. Mostly due to different temps across the heads, but also lack of pump lubrication... IMHO
> dp
> 
>> 50/50 mix in my BN7 but am using distilled water in lieu of tap water. It hasn't been drained in a number of years except to fix a leak in the original still used radiator several years ago.
>> FYI my water cooled Porsches have coolant more than 5 years old and no issue. I have captained large motor yachts and the multi gallonage coolant in their engines are seldom drained.

[email-masked]

---

From: David Porter <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 09:28:55 -0700

..as a final thought.. though there are now "permanent" coolants 
available for new vehicles, our old cast iron engines still require 
glycol based coolant. As a rule of thumb for exchange/life duration... 
stick your finger in the coolant, if it still feels slippery then it's 
likely still OK for a while longer.. best guess/test from me..

[email-masked]

---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 17:47:05 +0100

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The anti corrosion properties do deteriorate. I would change the coolant 
(blue or green, NOT red) every two years.
The waterless coolant does not cool as well, however it does not boil 
either up to 180°C. It is also bloody expensive as you do not only need 
the coolant but the prep fluid as well. If you cooling system is OK 
steer clear from it.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 5-11-2015 om 14:53 schreef Daniel White:
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2016.0.7227 / Virusdatabase: 4457/10949 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 11/05/15
>

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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">The anti corrosion properties do
      deteriorate. I would change the coolant (blue or green, NOT red)
      every two years.<br>
      The waterless coolant does not cool as well, however it does not
      boil either up to 180°C. It is also bloody expensive as you do not
      only need the coolant but the prep fluid as well. If you cooling
      system is OK steer clear from it.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 5-11-2015 om 14:53 schreef Daniel White:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div>
        <div>I've searched the archives looking for any discussion
          regarding how often to change the coolant in the BN7.  If the
          answer is there...I missed it.  I'm running a 50/50 mix of
          antifreeze and tap water and it tests o.k. as far as freeze
          protection.  This mix has been in the system for a number of
          years.  Does coolant "go bad" with age?  Any thoughts about
          the waterless coolant being sold on the market?<br>
        </div>
        <div>Thanks,<br>
        </div>
        <div>Dan White<br>
        </div>
        <div>1962 BN7 Mk II<br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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</pre>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: "Herbert Miller" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 10:59:51 -0600

I hate antifreeze because it is so slimy. With a fresh rebuild, on the first
start up,  I always use plane water with an additive I get at my parts
store. The additive is a water pump lub and corrosion inhibitor. When I am
satisfied that the cooling system is secure I drain the system, saving the
coolant for the next engine, and fill with the proper amount of antifreeze.
Seems to me that half a bottle of this additive would renew the existing
antifreeze.
Herb Miller   

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Richard
Collins
Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2015 10:05 AM
To: David Porter
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolant change

I don't disagree re boat engines which have more highly complex cooling
systems as both the fresh and salt water systems require attendance far more
frequently than cars. The freshwater side is less problematic than the
saltwater side but there is no "best by" date to refresh or clean the myriad
of pipes, tubes, pumps, filters  or liquids found on boats/yachts/ships
cooling systems. The age of the fresh water cooling liquid is basically a
non issue, just like with cars.
Having said that I did 2 yacht deliveries recently, one a twin engine Cat
powered sport fisherman and the other a 55 foot sailboat powered by a single
Perkins (both diesel). Both had cooling issues, not coolant related. As with
our cars (and my Healey) it's the hardware causing the problem, not the
liquid.
No argument with you, just my experience...

Regards,
Richard C

> Those boats using fresh water systems are highly prone to coolant 
> system issues too. Mostly due to different temps across the heads, but 
> also lack of pump lubrication... IMHO dp
> 
>> 50/50 mix in my BN7 but am using distilled water in lieu of tap water. It
hasn't been drained in a number of years except to fix a leak in the
original still used radiator several years ago.
>> FYI my water cooled Porsches have coolant more than 5 years old and no
issue. I have captained large motor yachts and the multi gallonage coolant
in their engines are seldom drained.
$12.75

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7163 / Virus Database: 4457/10952 - Release Date: 11/05/15

[email-masked]

---

From: Richard Collins <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 17:03:49 +0000

As Dave said re our old cast iron engines, it doesn't hurt to drain them occasionally just to clean the deposits out of the block and radiator. Just don't break the valve...

Regards,
Richard C

> On Nov 5, 2015, at 10:59, Herbert Miller <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Unsubscribe/Manage:

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From: David Porter <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 10:37:05 -0700

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..and the Evans brand is just as slimy..

On 11/5/2015 9:47 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> The anti corrosion properties do deteriorate. I would change the 
> coolant (blue or green, NOT red) every two years.
> either up to 180°C. It is also bloody expensive as you do not only 
> need the coolant but the prep fluid as well. If you cooling system is 
> OK steer clear from it.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>> missed it.  I'm running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and tap water and 
>> it tests o.k. as far as freeze protection.  This mix has been in the 
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> [email-masked]
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>>
>>
>>

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    ..and the Evans brand is just as slimy..<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/5/2015 9:47 AM, Oudesluys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
      <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
        http-equiv="Content-Type">
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">The anti corrosion properties do
        deteriorate. I would change the coolant (blue or green, NOT red)
        every two years.<br>
        The waterless coolant does not cool as well, however it does not
        boil either up to 180°C. It is also bloody expensive as you do
        not only need the coolant but the prep fluid as well. If you
        cooling system is OK steer clear from it.<br>
        Kees Oudesluijs<br>
        <br>
        <br>
        Op 5-11-2015 om 14:53 schreef Daniel White:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote
        cite="mid:[email-masked]"
        type="cite">
        <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; ">
        <div>
          <div>I've searched the archives looking for any discussion
            regarding how often to change the coolant in the BN7.  If
            the answer is there...I missed it.  I'm running a 50/50 mix
            of antifreeze and tap water and it tests o.k. as far as
            freeze protection.  This mix has been in the system for a
            number of years.  Does coolant "go bad" with age?  Any
            thoughts about the waterless coolant being sold on the
            market?<br>
          </div>
          <div>Thanks,<br>
          </div>
          <div>Dan White<br>
          </div>
          <div>1962 BN7 Mk II<br>
          </div>
        </div>
        <br>
        <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
        <br>
        <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
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</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>

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[email-masked]

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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 17:51:48 +0000 (UTC)

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Oh boy! A 'hot' (pun intended) topic right up there with oil and tires ;) 

'Coolant'--to my pedantic eye--is a mixture of water and antifreeze. The antifreeze is mostly ethylene glycol--some use propylene glycol, which is non-toxic but slightly less efficient--with some pump lubricant* and corrosion inhibitor. The corrosion inhibitor is a mild acid that gets 'used up' over time: 

http://www.google.com/patents/US6096236 

Usually, coolant life is expressed in miles; modern formulations can go over 100K miles before recommended change-out, but since our Healeys aren't going to be driven that much time becomes the issue (iron engines will rust just sitting). I would say change it every 5 years or so (which might only be a few thousand miles of driving for some owners). 

I believe the 'waterless' coolants are mostly propylene glycol and are quite a bit more expensive than ethylene glycol formulations. You'd still need to change it out when the corrosion inhibitors get used up; IMO it's a gimmick. 

Bob 

* it just occurred to me that the only thing that needs lubricating in a water pump is the bearings, but the last thing you want in the bearings is water. Am I missing something? 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Daniel White" <[email-masked]> 
To: "healeys" <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2015 5:53:14 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] Coolant change 

I've searched the archives looking for any discussion regarding how often to change the coolant in the BN7. If the answer is there...I missed it. I'm running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and tap water and it tests o.k. as far as freeze protection. This mix has been in the system for a number of years. Does coolant "go bad" with age? Any thoughts about the waterless coolant being sold on the market? 
Thanks, 
Dan White 
1962 BN7 Mk II 

------=_Part_8535871_1699056892.1446745908748
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">Oh boy!&nbsp; A 'hot' (pun intended) t=
opic right up there with oil and tires ;)<br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compo=
se body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">'Coolant'--to my pedant=
ic eye--is a mixture of water and antifreeze.&nbsp; The antifreeze is mostl=
y ethylene glycol--some use propylene glycol, which is non-toxic but slight=
ly less efficient--with some pump lubricant* and corrosion inhibitor.&nbsp;=
 The corrosion inhibitor is a mild acid that gets 'used up' over time:<br><=
/div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose =
body"><a href=3D"http://www.google.com/patents/US6096236">http://www.google=
.com/patents/US6096236</a></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div>=
<div aria-label=3D"Compose body">Usually, coolant life is expressed in mile=
s; modern formulations can go over 100K miles before recommended change-out=
, but since our Healeys aren't going to be driven that much time becomes th=
e issue (iron engines will rust just sitting).&nbsp; I would say change it =
every 5 years or so (which might only be a few thousand miles of driving fo=
r some owners).<br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div ar=
ia-label=3D"Compose body">I believe the 'waterless' coolants are mostly pro=
pylene glycol and are quite a bit more expensive than ethylene glycol formu=
lations.&nbsp; You'd still need to change it out when the corrosion inhibit=
ors get used up; IMO it's a gimmick.<br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose bo=
dy"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">Bob<br></div><div aria-label=
=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">* it just occu=
rred to me that the only thing that needs lubricating in a water pump is th=
e bearings, but the last thing you want in the bearings is water.&nbsp; Am =
I missing something?<br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div><d=
iv><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;f=
ont-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-seri=
f;font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style=3D"color: #000; font-weight: normal; font=
-style: normal; text-decoration: none; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-se=
rif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"Daniel White" &lt;[email-masked]=
&gt;<br><b>To: </b>"healeys" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Sent: </b=
>Thursday, November 5, 2015 5:53:14 AM<br><b>Subject: </b>[Healeys] Coolant=
 change<br><div><br></div><div style=3D"font-family: times new roman, new y=
ork, times, serif; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000" data-mce-style=3D"font-=
family: times new roman, new york, times, serif; font-size: 12pt; color: #0=
00000;"><div>I've searched the archives looking for any discussion regardin=
g how often to change the coolant in the BN7.&nbsp; If the answer is there.=
..I missed it.&nbsp; I'm running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and tap water an=
d it tests o.k. as far as freeze protection.&nbsp; This mix has been in the=
 system for a number of years.&nbsp; Does coolant "go bad" with age?&nbsp; =
Any thoughts about the waterless coolant being sold on the market?<br></div=
><div>Thanks,<br></div><div>Dan White<br></div><div>1962 BN7 Mk II<br></div=
></div><br>_______________________________________________<br><br><div><br>=
</div></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 18:14:18 +0000 (UTC)

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I'm going to answer my own question: the lubricant is for the seal, which is a ceramic against a machined metal surface (not the bearings, obviously). 

----- Original Message -----

Bob 

----- Original Message -----

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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div>I'm going to answer my own question: the lubricant is for the seal=
, which is a ceramic against a machined metal surface (not the bearings, ob=
viously).<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div styl=
e=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;f=
ont-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><br><div><br></div><=
div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>Oh b=
oy!&nbsp; A 'hot' (pun intended) topic right up there with oil and tires ;)=
<br></div><div><br></div><div>'Coolant'--to my pedantic eye--is a mixture o=
f water and antifreeze.&nbsp; The antifreeze is mostly ethylene glycol--som=
e use propylene glycol, which is non-toxic but slightly less efficient--wit=
h some pump lubricant* and corrosion inhibitor.&nbsp; The corrosion inhibit=
or is a mild acid that gets 'used up' over time:<br></div><div><br></div><d=
iv><a href=3D"http://www.google.com/patents/US6096236" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://www.google.com/patents/US6096236</a><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><di=
v><br></div><div>Usually, coolant life is expressed in miles; modern formul=
ations can go over 100K miles before recommended change-out, but since our =
Healeys aren't going to be driven that much time becomes the issue (iron en=
gines will rust just sitting).&nbsp; I would say change it every 5 years or=
 so (which might only be a few thousand miles of driving for some owners).<=
br></div><div><br></div><div>I believe the 'waterless' coolants are mostly =
propylene glycol and are quite a bit more expensive than ethylene glycol fo=
rmulations.&nbsp; You'd still need to change it out when the corrosion inhi=
bitors get used up; IMO it's a gimmick.<br></div><div><br></div><div>Bob<br=
></div><div><br></div><div>* it just occurred to me that the only thing tha=
t needs lubricating in a water pump is the bearings, but the last thing you=
 want in the bearings is water.&nbsp; Am I missing something?<br></div><div=
><br></div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><br></div></div></div></body></h=
tml>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 18:17:08 +0000 (UTC)

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There are testers for this; I suspect they are a type of litmus pager we all remember from high school chemistry class (NFI, no experience with them): 

http://tinyurl.com/qz2p5zr 

----- Original Message -----

------=_Part_8567583_579442006.1446747428764
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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div>There are testers for this; I suspect they are a type of litmus pa=
ger we all remember from high school chemistry class (NFI, no experience wi=
th them):<br></div><div><br></div><div><b>http://tinyurl.com/qz2p5zr</b></d=
iv><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:nor=
mal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans=
-serif;font-size:12pt;"><br><div><br></div>..as a final thought.. though th=
ere are now "permanent" coolants <br>available for new vehicles, our old ca=
st iron engines still require <br>glycol based coolant. As a rule of thumb =
for exchange/life duration... <br>stick your finger in the coolant, if it s=
till feels slippery then it's <br>likely still OK for a while longer.. best=
 guess/test from me..<br><div><br></div><br style=3D"color:#000;font-weight=
:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,=
sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"></div></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

--===============5680513399392433854==--

---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 23:07:00 +0100

Op 5-11-2015 om 18:51 schreef Bob Spidell:
> it just occurred to me that the only thing that needs lubricating in a 
> water pump is the bearings, but the last thing you want in the 
> bearings is water.  Am I missing something?

What about the seal that needs lubrication.
Kees Oudesluijs
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]

---

From: "Bruce Steele" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 17:12:18 -0800

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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This is a multipart message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_02E9_01D117ED.20EB13E0
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I ran Evans for a year, and was not particularly happy with it.  Yes, it =
has
a higher boiling point, but my engine ran hotter and took longer to get =
to
operating temp as the engineer I spoke with at Evans advised to run =
without
the thermostat.  I went back to 25% glycol / 25% distilled water with =
Water
Wetter.

=20

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

=20

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of David
Porter
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2015 9:37 AM
To: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolant change

=20

The anti corrosion properties do deteriorate. I would change the coolant
(blue or green, NOT red) every two years.
The waterless coolant does not cool as well, however it does not boil =
either
up to 180=B0C. It is also bloody expensive as you do not only need the =
coolant
but the prep fluid as well. If you cooling system is OK steer clear from =
it.
Kees Oudesluijs

I've searched the archives looking for any discussion regarding how =
often to
change the coolant in the BN7.  If the answer is there...I missed it.  =
I'm
running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and tap water and it tests o.k. as far =
as
freeze protection.  This mix has been in the system for a number of =
years.
Does coolant "go bad" with age?  Any thoughts about the waterless =
coolant
being sold on the market?

Thanks,

Dan White

1962 BN7 Mk II

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
=20

Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>=20
Versie: 2016.0.7227 / Virusdatabase: 4457/10949 - datum van uitgifte:
11/05/15

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
=20

=20

--=20
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM =
87107
505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
<http://www.porterbikes.com/> =20

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=3Dwhite =
lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Trebuchet =
MS",sans-serif;color:windowtext'>I ran Evans for a year, and was not =
particularly happy with it.=A0 Yes, it has a higher boiling point, but =
my engine ran hotter and took longer to get to operating temp as the =
engineer I spoke with at Evans advised to run without the thermostat.=A0 =
I went back to 25% glycol / 25% distilled water with Water =
Wetter.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Trebuchet =
MS",sans-serif;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Trebuchet =
MS",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Bruce Steele<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Trebuchet =
MS",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Brea, CA<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Trebuchet =
MS",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>1960 BN7<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Trebuchet =
MS",sans-serif;color:windowtext'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'> Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>David Porter<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, November 05, 2015 9:37 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> Oudesluys &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; =
[email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Coolant =
change<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>..and the Evans brand is just as =
slimy..<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On 11/5/2015 9:47 AM, =
Oudesluys wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>The anti corrosion properties do deteriorate. I would =
change the coolant (blue or green, NOT red) every two years.<br>The =
waterless coolant does not cool as well, however it does not boil either =
up to 180=B0C. It is also bloody expensive as you do not only need the =
coolant but the prep fluid as well. If you cooling system is OK steer =
clear from it.<br>Kees Oudesluijs<br><br><br>Op 5-11-2015 om 14:53 =
schreef Daniel White:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I've searched the archives looking for any discussion =
regarding how often to change the coolant in the BN7.&nbsp; If the =
answer is there...I missed it.&nbsp; I'm running a 50/50 mix of =
antifreeze and tap water and it tests o.k. as far as freeze =
protection.&nbsp; This mix has been in the system for a number of =
years.&nbsp; Does coolant &quot;go bad&quot; with age?&nbsp; Any =
thoughts about the waterless coolant being sold on the =
market?<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Dan White<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>1962 BN7 Mk II<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>_______________________=
________________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Support Team.Net <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Suggested annual donation=A0 =
$12.75<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Archive: <a =
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o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><o:p></o=
:p></pre><pre><a =
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.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/pre><pre>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a =
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a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
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o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><o:p></o=
:p></pre><pre><a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team=
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/pre><pre>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscust=
om.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscust=
om.com</a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>-- =
<br>Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM =
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world <a =
href=3D"http://www.porterbikes.com/">www.porterbikes.com/</a> =
<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></body></html>
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From: "Roger Grace" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 19:49:50 -0800

Agree the normal interval for changing glycol coolant is 2-3 years.

In my opinion it is best to use the least amount of glycol/anti freeze that 
you can get away with. This of course depends on where you live and if you 
intend to leave your car out to the elements at 25 C below ! Reducing the 
amount of antifreeze improves hear transfer (specific heat) but reduces 
corrosion protection. So I use about a 15 % glycol mix for basic freeze 
protection when the ol' lady is parked in the garage and add an anti 
corrosion additive - such as No-Rosion that has a minimum of 5 year life 
before needing to be changed. Best to use RO water with a new fill.

Note too that if you use the waterless coolants your engine WILL  run hotter 
unless you increase the coolant flow rate (difficult for AH)  due to the 
reduced heat transfer capability. Typically they have a specific heat of 
0.66 (water =1) that is 2x worse than a 50:50 glycol mix. This will not be 
obvious as the temp gauge will not show it, as it measures the coolant temp 
and not the temp of the engine metal bits that will be hotter.  Main 
advantage is that you never have to change coolant.

rg

-----Original Message----- 
From: Oudesluys
Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2015 2:07 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolant change

Op 5-11-2015 om 18:51 schreef Bob Spidell:
> water pump is the bearings, but the last thing you want in the bearings is 
> water.  Am I missing something?

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4457/10952 - Release Date: 11/05/15 

[email-masked]

---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2015 09:11:59 +0100

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The heat transfer of Evans is less than water so theoretically one would 
need a bigger radiator to run at the same temperature. Running at a 
higher temperature is no problem at all though, I have run most of my 
cars on a thermostat with a higher opening temperature. It runs more 
efficient that way. The advice to run an engine without thermostat is of 
course idiotic.
I run my JH on 86°C instead of the standard 74°C (hot states) or 82°C. 
This gives a better cooling because of the higher delta T. Standard 
blue/green coolant. The electric fan comes in around around 98°C and 
switches of at around 92°C. No fixed fan. Even with the higher engine 
output because of DellOrto's DHLA 45 there are no issues.
A warning! Do not use the red/purple coolant as it can ruin 
gaskets/seals in older cars leaving you with coolant in the oil or oil 
in the coolant.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 6-11-2015 om 2:12 schreef Bruce Steele:
>
> I ran Evans for a year, and was not particularly happy with it.  Yes, 
> it has a higher boiling point, but my engine ran hotter and took 
> longer to get to operating temp as the engineer I spoke with at Evans 
> advised to run without the thermostat.  I went back to 25% glycol / 
> 25% distilled water with Water Wetter.
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] *On Behalf Of 
> *David Porter
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 05, 2015 9:37 AM
> *To:* Oudesluys <[email-masked]>; [email-masked]
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Coolant change
>
>     system is OK steer clear from it.
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>         I've searched the archives looking for any discussion
>         the waterless coolant being sold on the market?
>
>         Thanks,
>
>         Dan White
>
>         1962 BN7 Mk II
>
>
>
>
>         uitgifte: 11/05/15
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>       
>
> -- 
> <http://www.porterbikes.com/>
>
> Versie: 2016.0.7227 / Virusdatabase: 4457/10953 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 11/05/15
>

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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">The heat transfer of Evans is less than
      water so theoretically one would need a bigger radiator to run at
      the same temperature. Running at a higher temperature is no
      problem at all though, I have run most of my cars on a thermostat
      with a higher opening temperature. It runs more efficient that
      way. The advice to run an engine without thermostat is of course
      idiotic.<br>
      I run my JH on 86°C instead of the standard 74°C (hot states) or
      82°C. This gives a better cooling because of the higher delta T.
      Standard blue/green coolant. The electric fan comes in around
      around 98°C and switches of at around 92°C. No fixed fan. Even
      with the higher engine output because of DellOrto's DHLA 45 there
      are no issues.<br>
      A warning! Do not use the red/purple coolant as it can ruin
      gaskets/seals in older cars leaving you with coolant in the oil or
      oil in the coolant.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      Op 6-11-2015 om 2:12 schreef Bruce Steele:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=iso-8859-1">
      <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 15 (filtered
        medium)">
      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>I ran Evans for a year, and was not
            particularly happy with it.  Yes, it has a higher boiling
            point, but my engine ran hotter and took longer to get to
            operating temp as the engineer I spoke with at Evans advised
            to run without the thermostat.  I went back to 25% glycol /
            25% distilled water with Water Wetter.</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
        <div>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Bruce Steele</span></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Brea, CA</span></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span>1960 BN7</span></p>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
        <div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><span> Healeys
                [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:[email-masked]">mailto:[email-masked]</a>] <b>On Behalf Of
                </b>David Porter<br>
                <b>Sent:</b> Thursday, November 05, 2015 9:37 AM<br>
                <b>To:</b> Oudesluys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>;
                <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
                <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Coolant change</span></p>
          </div>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">..and the Evans brand is just as slimy..</p>
        <div>
          <p class="MsoNormal">On 11/5/2015 9:47 AM, Oudesluys wrote:</p>
        </div>
        <blockquote>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal">The anti corrosion properties do
              deteriorate. I would change the coolant (blue or green,
              NOT red) every two years.<br>
              The waterless coolant does not cool as well, however it
              does not boil either up to 180°C. It is also bloody
              expensive as you do not only need the coolant but the prep
              fluid as well. If you cooling system is OK steer clear
              from it.<br>
              Kees Oudesluijs<br>
              <br>
              <br>
              Op 5-11-2015 om 14:53 schreef Daniel White:</p>
          </div>
          <blockquote>
            <div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal">I've searched the archives looking
                  for any discussion regarding how often to change the
                  coolant in the BN7.  If the answer is there...I missed
                  it.  I'm running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and tap
                  water and it tests o.k. as far as freeze protection. 
                  This mix has been in the system for a number of
                  years.  Does coolant "go bad" with age?  Any thoughts
                  about the waterless coolant being sold on the market?</p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,</p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal">Dan White</p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal">1962 BN7 Mk II</p>
              </div>
            </div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><br>
              <br>
              <br>
            </p>
            <pre>_______________________________________________</pre>
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            <pre> </pre>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><br>
              <br>
              <br>
            </p>
            <p class="MsoNormal">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
              Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
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              Versie: 2016.0.7227 / Virusdatabase: 4457/10949 - datum
              van uitgifte: 11/05/15</p>
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            <br>
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          <pre> </pre>
        </blockquote>
        <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
        <div>
          <p class="MsoNormal">-- <br>
            Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE
            Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world <a
              moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.porterbikes.com/"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.porterbikes.com/">www.porterbikes.com/</a></a>
          </p>
        </div>
      </div>
      <p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
        Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
          href="http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</a><br>
        Versie: 2016.0.7227 / Virusdatabase: 4457/10953 - datum van
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2015 08:26:09 -0500

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Absolutely correct Roger.
Sage advice.
Michael S

-----Original Message-----
From: "Roger Grace" <[email-masked]>
Sent: =E2=80=8E5/=E2=80=8E11/=E2=80=8E2015 11:19 p.m.
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>; "Oudesluys" <coudesl=
[email-masked]>

In my opinion it is best to use the least amount of glycol/anti freeze that=
=20
you can get away with. This of course depends on where you live and if you=
=20
intend to leave your car out to the elements at 25 C below ! Reducing the=20
amount of antifreeze improves hear transfer (specific heat) but reduces=20
corrosion protection. So I use about a 15 % glycol mix for basic freeze=20
protection when the ol' lady is parked in the garage and add an anti=20
corrosion additive - such as No-Rosion that has a minimum of 5 year life=20
before needing to be changed. Best to use RO water with a new fill.

Note too that if you use the waterless coolants your engine WILL  run hotte=
r=20
unless you increase the coolant flow rate (difficult for AH)  due to the=20
reduced heat transfer capability. Typically they have a specific heat of=20
0.66 (water =3D1) that is 2x worse than a 50:50 glycol mix. This will not b=
e=20
obvious as the temp gauge will not show it, as it measures the coolant temp=
=20
and not the temp of the engine metal bits that will be hotter.  Main=20
advantage is that you never have to change coolant.

rg

-----Original Message-----=20
From: Oudesluys
Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2015 2:07 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolant change

Op 5-11-2015 om 18:51 schreef Bob Spidell:
> it just occurred to me that the only thing that needs lubricating in a=20
> water pump is the bearings, but the last thing you want in the bearings i=
s=20

[email-masked]

-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4457/10952 - Release Date: 11/05/15=
=20

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3Dutf-8"></head><body><div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; =
font-size: 11pt;">Absolutely correct Roger.<br>Sage advice.<br>Michael S</d=
iv></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><hr><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-seri=
f; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span style=3D"font-fa=
mily: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:roggrace@telu=
s.net">Roger Grace</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-s=
erif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><span style=3D"font=
-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">=E2=80=8E5/=E2=80=8E11/=E2=
=80=8E2015 11:19 p.m.</span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-se=
rif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">To: </span><span style=3D"font-fa=
mily: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox=
.team.net">[email-masked]</a>; <a href=3D"mailto:coudesluijs@chello=
.nl">Oudesluys</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif=
; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Subject: </span><span style=3D"font-=
family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Re: [Healeys] Coolant change<=
/span><br><br></div>Agree the normal interval for changing glycol coolant i=
s 2-3 years.<br><br>In my opinion it is best to use the least amount of gly=
col/anti freeze that <br>you can get away with. This of course depends on w=
here you live and if you <br>intend to leave your car out to the elements a=
t 25 C below ! Reducing the <br>amount of antifreeze improves hear transfer=
 (specific heat) but reduces <br>corrosion protection. So I use about a 15 =
% glycol mix for basic freeze <br>protection when the ol' lady is parked in=
 the garage and add an anti <br>corrosion additive - such as No-Rosion that=
 has a minimum of 5 year life <br>before needing to be changed. Best to use=
 RO water with a new fill.<br><br>Note too that if you use the waterless co=
olants your engine WILL&nbsp; run hotter <br>unless you increase the coolan=
t flow rate (difficult for AH)&nbsp; due to the <br>reduced heat transfer c=
apability. Typically they have a specific heat of <br>0.66 (water =3D1) tha=
t is 2x worse than a 50:50 glycol mix. This will not be <br>obvious as the =
temp gauge will not show it, as it measures the coolant temp <br>and not th=
e temp of the engine metal bits that will be hotter.&nbsp; Main <br>advanta=
ge is that you never have to change coolant.<br><br>rg<br><br><br>-----Orig=
inal Message----- <br>From: Oudesluys<br>Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2015 2=
:07 PM<br>To: [email-masked]<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolant chan=
ge<br><br>Op 5-11-2015 om 18:51 schreef Bob Spidell:<br>&gt; it just occurr=
ed to me that the only thing that needs lubricating in a <br>&gt; water pum=
p is the bearings, but the last thing you want in the bearings is <br>&gt; =
water.&nbsp; Am I missing something?<br><br>What about the seal that needs =
lubrication.<br>Kees Oudesluijs<br>________________________________________=
_______<br>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Suggested an=
nual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forum=
s: http://www.team.net/forums<br><br>[email-masked]<br>http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <br>http://au=
tox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br><br><br><br>----=
-<br>No virus found in this message.<br>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<br>Ver=
sion: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4457/10952 - Release Date: 11/05/15 <br=
><br>_______________________________________________<br>Support Team.Net ht=
tp://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>=
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<=
br><br>[email-masked]<br>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/hea=
leys<br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/heale=
ys/[email-masked]<br><br></body></html>=

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