Hi,
Any specific reason you have to have a
64 or 65 K code motor? I ask because they're
getting a little scarous and expensive (not that
this is EVER going to be a cheap hobby). But
a Mexican block and after market rotating assembly
would be a more solid start on a fresh engine for
not to much more money (when you figure in the cost
of machine work on the used parts). After all
people didn't pay the extra terrif on the HOPO 289
to put back and forth to Sunday school. Many of
those used 289s have seen the high side of 7800Rpm
many times in the last 37-38 years (ask me how I
know =8^) ). And cast cranks (even 2.87" stroke
ones) don't really like that kind of treatment
(again ask me how I know (well don't actually, the
memories are painful, BANG RAttel rattel...), or
why I've swarn off of cast crank motors.
If the rule book absolutly requires period
correct internal parts, then (of course O;^) ) your
stuck, but at this point I'd look any HIPO gift
horses VERY carefully in the mouth. Just my $0.02
I will say the the 65-67 289/ 67-70 302 blocks
are pleny stout with the addition of a main stud girdle.
I'm about to take delivery on a 306 based on a 65 298
block for street, SCCA SOLO II CP competition, and
the occasional FATT:
"Stroked" 289 Windsor (4.03" bore X 3" stroke = 306 ci)
CNC ported Canfeild Aluminum Heads. 2.08" Intake/1.6" Exhaust
valves. Out-of-the-box flow:(@ 28" of Water):
Valve Lift Intake CFM Exhaust CFM
0.10" 61.82 57.33
0.20" 126.31 103.58
0.30" 185.46 150.46
0.40" 234.38 178.97
0.50" 260.62 192.27
0.60" 280.64 199.24
(hard to beat at $1400 complete)
Canfield Rocker stud girdle, 7/16" rocker studs
1.6:1 aluminum roller rocker arms
10.85:1 Static Compression
4340 Steel Lightweight Eagle Crank (43 Lbs. Before
balancing, required about 0.25" off of each counter
weight to balance with the rods pistons selected)
4340 Steel Eagle Connecting Rods
Wisco Forged Pistons
Cam (Flat Tappet Mechanical):
Intake Exhaust
Lift: 0.541" 0.522"
Duration (Advertized):
2880 2840
Duration (@ 0.050" lift):
2420 2460
Canton Main Cap Stud Girdle / Windage Tray
Canton 9 Qt road race oil pan, and 3 Qt Accusump
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap Intake.
Holley 780 CFM Vacuum Secondary Carb.
Dual 2 1/2" Exhaust with 2 chamber Flowmaster
Mufflers.
1.75" Primary tube, 3.5" Collector Hooker Super
Competition Headers.
McLoad 17# flywheel
Center Force Dual Friction Clutch
Not exactly a torque moster, but the rule book lets me take
another 450 Lbs (from where it was at 3150) off of the car.
Since I'm only running 16"x8" wheels with 23.5"x10.5" slicks
(as opposed to 16x12 and 25x12), the lighter the better.
There WILL be a bit of an adjustment as the previous motor
was a 410CI Windsor which WAS a torque monster (it would
haze the slicks in 3rd gear as the tach swung past 3700 RPM).
Alas, it showed up with 5 cracks in the crank after teardown
a couple of years ago (reason two, why I've swarn off of cast
cranks).
Anyway, if you can, you may want to expand the range
of engines your looking at for a foundation.
At 11:19 AM 10/28/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Need an early, circa 1964 or 65, hypo 289 Ford core engine to build into
>a vintage racer.
>
>Any clues out there?
All the Best! Dave ;^)
'66 Formula S Barracuda, CP/Vinatage
'66 C code Mustang Coup, CP
'91 Sundance, HS (150,000 miles and counting)
'97 Cherokee
Lame Horse Racing
College Park, MD
http://www.erols.com/dmapes/
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