Goodridge have ends in the same British thread as the original lines. That's
one of the big reasons I use it. Makes a real neat installation. Also, you
don't have the adapters taking away from active flex length of the hose, so
the hoses are more like the effective length they need to be. Mark, I think
you'll find the kits made up by some of the folks like Moss or some English
MG providers are actually made with Goodridge stuff and will go right on to
an original car. If you need special lengths, I have the tools to make them
up. The part that is hard to find in doing a car completely over is the
female steel nuts at the ends of the tubes, where the hoses attach. I bought
a bag of them last time in England. If you have a new kit of copper alloy,
it should have these nuts, and that's the way I would go. Only problem w/
that kit is that somewhere, you will find a tech inspector that thinks it is
the dead soft copper you use for fuel line and question it on a safety
issue. The other alternative is that many of the old foreign car suppliers
carry "Bundyflex" steel replacement brake lines. They form really well and
make a super installation. With a good double flair kit, you can replace the
male end, where necessary, with the female nut and the car will look like it
is supposed to.
Regards,
Roger Sieling
>From: WSpohn4@aol.com
>Reply-To: WSpohn4@aol.com
>To: mgvrmark@hotmail.com, vintage-race@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Brake line advice
>Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 12:19:12 EST
>
>Mark - I wouldn't trust flex hose for the whole car. ANY flex is too much,
>and I have a hard time believing that there isn't SOME - every foot you
>have
>adds up to a bit of loss.
>
>The other factor is cost. That stuff wears out from the inside out wherever
>it flexes, and from a safety point of view you have to assume it flexes
>everywhere. The cost is not insignificant to replace a whole car done with
>the stuff.
>
>I'd use hard line, of either steel or the anticorrosion copper/steel you
>have
>- neither is better from a performance point of view, the only attribute
>that
>varies is how long it will be before you have to replace IT for safety (I
>had
>a steel line pinhole on me when bleeding once....)
>
>The Aeroquip is excellent for frame to brake, if made so as not to rub, and
>changed every decade or so. Going from British fittings to regular ends and
>locating the fittings in the frame clips can be a bit of minor fun.
>
>Don't forget to do the clutch line too - a failed one can really test your
>driving skill - I once had to run 3/4 of a race completely without clutch -
>nearly ran the course marshall over at the end, as he didn't realise I
>couldn't stop (or I wouldn't get going again).
>
>Bill
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