Try changing the fuel filter - on mine, the fuel filter on the chassis rail
would get water in it and intermittently starve the fuel system. Pissed me
off so bad I sold the truck! (after dropping the tank, etc, in the middle
of winter).
Brian
At 04:22 PM 11/6/00 -0500, Rick.Yocum@mail.sprint.com wrote:
>--openmail-part-03b49471-00000001
>Content-Disposition: inline
> ;Creation-Date="Mon, 6 Nov 2000 16:22:23 -0500"
>
>Hey, as long as we're on this topic (and I think this is going as a
>non-posted note to you), any odea why my Suburban (96 with carb) will
>run strong for about 80 miles, then start acting like it'sa starved for
>fuel? This weekend it drove me nuts. Would run for 80 miles or so,
>then almost refuse to climb a hill. My gas pedal range was about
>1/4-inch. And more and it would bog down, any less and it would slow.
>If it downshifted I could get no RPMs out of it. Like it was
>fuel-starved. And often times, after stopping for gas, it would give
>me 40-60 miles of care-free driving before launching into its maddening
>behavior again. And to make it even more complicated, it occasionally
>would begin running fine after a period of missing/stalling. This is
>not the first time for this. Changed fuel filter, fuel pump and, a
>month ago, the catalytic converter. It's driving me right out of my
>mind. I am thinking of dropping the gas tank and checking for debris,
>but that doesn't explain the carfree driving when cold.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Rick Yocum
>Chevy II TransAm
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: brian [mailto:brian@uunet.ca]
>Sent: Monday, November 06, 2000 2:57 PM
>To: carlmcle; vintage-race; alpines
>Cc: brian
>Subject: Re: What went wrong?
>
>
>Probably coil shorted intermittently - this is classic bad coil
>symptom. I
>once had a coil that would fail after 5 minutes running - took forever
>to
>diagnose since it looked so much like a fuel problem.
>
>Cheers, Brian
>
>At 02:45 PM 11/6/00 -0500, Carl McLelland wrote:
> >For you technical buffs out there, this one is a stumper for me.
> >
> >At Sears Point, October 28-29, I had an ignition problem that I'm at a
>loss
> >to resolve. The car is a series 1 Alpine with a series 5 (1725cc)
>engine, 12
> >volt with the polarity reversed to negative ground. The engine is
>basically
> >stock, with Zenith carbs and a Mallory dual point distributor. I'm also
> >using a Mallory ballast resistor.
> >
> >On Saturday, in the rain, temperature around 65 degrees, the car ran
> >fantastic, easily attaining 6500rpm in 4'th gear. We finished 2'nd
>overall.
> >On Sunday, on a dry track with the temperature again around 65
>degrees, the
> >performance was the same until the start of the 3'rd lap. At this
>point, as
> >I was entering turn 1, the engine stopped running..... just as if I had
> >turned the ignition off. All attempts at a restart failed.
> >
> >After the end of the race when the tow truck arrived to tow me in,
>just for
> >kicks, I hit the starter and she came to life as though nothing had
>ever
> >gone wrong. I drove it around to the pits and up onto the trailer.
> >
> >The next morning I fired it up and drove it off the trailer and into
>the
> >shop. It started right up but the ignition cut out if I tried to take
>it
> >over 2000rpm. The next day I started it and it ran through the entire
>rpm
> >range without hesitation.
> >
> >The fuel system works fine; no problem here.
> >
> >The timing was correct.
> >
> >The ballast resister showed 1 ohm of resistance. The specs for the
>resistor
> >are 0.75 - 1.5 ohms, so no problem here.
> >
> >I pulled the distributor and removed the points. One set of points
>showed
> >correct point gap and normal pitting for the amount of use. The other
>set of
> >points looked like they had been a plate for arc welding, with the
>entire
> >surface of the points badly pitted and rough. The gap appeared to be
> >correct; given the amount of pitting.
> >
> >I replaced the points, condensor, ballast resistor, timed it and it
>runs
> >perfectly. Further inspection revealed one wire lead from the ballast
> >resistor to the coil that "wasn't as tight as I would like (but not
>falling
> >off, either)", which I tightened. Further, I inspected every wire and
> >connection between the engine and ground or back through the circuit
>to the
> >ignition/starting switches and no other problems.
> >
> >Has anybody out there experienced similar problems? What was your cure?
> >
> >Anybody have any idea what may have gone wrong? I'd sure hate to be at
>the
> >front of the pack again this weekend at Thunder Hill and have a similar
> >thing happen.
> >
> >Thanks in advance!
> > Carl McLelland
> > email: carlmcle@saturnnet.com
> > web: http://carlynneracing.homestead.com/home.html
>
>Brian Evans
>Director, Strategic Accounts
>UUNET, A WorldCom Company
>
>
>--openmail-part-03b49471-00000001--
Brian Evans
Director, Strategic Accounts
UUNET, A WorldCom Company
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