heated floors are real neat untill the cement starts to react with the
plumbing and rots the plumbing away. had this experience in a
lincoln/mercury dealership i worked at back in the mid 80's. they
ecided( while we <the mechanics> froze our tails off ) that it was too
expensive to repair the plumbing and installed forced hot air heat via
overhead duct work.
what ever you do decide to do , carefully decide what plumbing is compatible
with the corosive tendancies of concrete. if yer gonna do the job make it
last?
just my .02 worth, for what it is worth......
chuck.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Scarlett @ TubeTech <scarlett@tubetechltd.com>
To: John Lehman <JELehman@ix.netcom.com>; varac <varac@egroups.com>; Vintage
race (E-mail) <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 12:54 PM
Subject: Shop Floors
> OK lets try this one. I've recently moved and I'm
> planning to convert an old 20 X 40' drive shed
> to a workshop. The existing cement floor has some
> deep cracks and to remove this floor would be darn
> near impossible, and I also want to install radiant floor
> heating. So how about building a grid of say 3/4"
> CS pipe to carry the glycol and reinforce the floor
> at the same time? Then maybe 4" of new cement
> over that?
>
> Thanks John L for your earlier communications.
>
>
>
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