Derek, drilling and tapping IS how you install a threaded hole...
When I was running a Midget, I used bias ply racing tires and got enough
camber by using offset drilled nylon type bushes in the upper trunnion, and
using 3/8" shims under the shocks. worked just fine, I think I ended up
with about .75 deg negative. You can also get offset drilled inner lower
A-arm bushes, which I didn't need to use. Radials probably need about 2 deg
neg. minimum, which I don't think is possible without cutting something.
VARAC, as a fairly conservative club, would absolutely frown on drilling the
shock arm and installing a rod-end, which is probably the best thing to do
if one wants to both preserve the lever arm shock and get adjustable
suspension. We would probably prefer that you didn't drill the shock arm
and install a nylon sleeve type end, or drill both the arm and the trunnion,
as described, although I see no technical reason why those mods wouldn't be
both effective and safe - just rule stretching for VARAC. If I was doing
something like this, I'd cut the arm, shorten it, re-weld using plating to
reinforce, just like we used to do to lengthen the lower arm on Mini's.
But at the risk of opening another can of worms, why not move the outer
mounting bosses for the lower kingpin mount on the A-arm out farther? As I
recall, I had some inner clearance problems that a touch more trackwidth
would have helped with at the front (easily cured with spacers, but why not
kill two birds with one stone?). You could cut off the mounting part at the
end of the A-arm, add about 3/8" or so, weld it back on and then box the
area to add strength. Get someone who knows how to weld to do it and you
probably couldn't tell it wasn't stock.
Cheers, Brian
At 09:42 AM 5/27/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Douglas Wilson wrote:
>
>> . . . . we installed a threaded hole . . . . .
>
>How do you do that? - is it easier than drilling and tapping?
>
>Derek
>
Brian Evans
Director, Global Sales
UUNET, An MCI WorldCom Company
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