If the hole isn't really sloppy you might try locktight red.
I've used this on my FF / Triumph front hubs to hold modified studs. Same
method you described for alignment - bolt up a wheel until they set. I would
also use a propane torch to heat up the stud and kill the locktight if I wanted
to remove them later. Welding the stud makes me nervous, other thoughts?
Mike Henry
Denver CO
Bob Spruck wrote:
> Hi folks:
>
> While replacing the brake rotors on my '67 MG Midget vintage race car, I
> discovered that one of the wheel studs was loose. It didn't spin, but
> rather like a loose tooth, it just wobbled. These are 7/16 " studs I
> installed to replace the puny 3/8" ones when I built the car . The proper
> fix, of course, would be to get another hub, drill out the stud holes,
> install new studs, swap the bearings, install the new rotors, and start
> anew. My problem is time. Now that my daughter is getting married in June,
> my wife and I have a lot of inside domestic projects for the winter and
> then a lot of outside projects for the spring. My agenda, of course, is to
> get the race car ready for the season and finishing up the hydraulic
> rebuild, engine compartment painting, and engine rebuild on my '72 street
> Midget.
>
> What do you think of putting a spot or two of weld on the head of the stud
> and the hub. I know this will make it permanent but that's OK. A future fix
> when I have more time would be to replace the entire assembly. Has anyone
> done this. Does anyone see any danger in doing this. I would mount the hub
> to the wheel with all four studs and wheel nuts so that they would be in
> the proper orientation and wouldn't be welded crooked.
>
> Your opinions, experiences, recommendations, or suggestions would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Bob Spruck
> Sharpsburg, GA
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