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Carb diaphragms?
90% of carb problems are electric, and 90% of ignition problems are fuel
related.
Step back, take a breather, and check the basics. Got compression? Got
sufficient fuel delivery? Got spark at the right time?
On Fri, Aug 27, 2021, 15:10 Joel Justin <j_bar_j@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi everyone. This is my first time posting a question. I've got a 1965
> Triumph 2000 Mk1 Saloon. The engine is basically a GT6 2 liter with dual
> Stromberg CD150 carbs. I have a starting issue and I'd like to tap into t=
he
> wisdom of this group. When I first go to start the car, I give it a littl=
e
> choke, pump the accelerator once or twice and leave it at about half
> throttle, and turn the key. The car always starts right up, even if it's
> been sitting for a month. But if I pull it out into the driveway, and tur=
n
> it off (or stall it =F0=9F=98=89), then try to restart it, it struggles. =
It cranks
> and cranks with the RPMs increasing like it's thinking about starting, an=
d
> sometimes it does, but others, it takes several cycles of that before it
> starts. The warmer the engine, the harder it is to restart. If I let it
> cool for say a half hour, it starts right up again. The carbs were rebuil=
t
> about a year ago (this happened before and after the rebuild). I've
> replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one thinking it might =
be
> a weak fuel pump, but that didn't solve it. I improved my grounding to
> ensure I wasn't stealing coil voltage for the starter, and I even replace=
d
> the starter with a high-torque version to get a higher spin rate. None of
> this helped. I thought vapor lock might be the issue (I also installed a
> head shield for the carbs), but it happens when it's cold too. The only
> thing left I can think of is that the carbs are flooding. But when I
> rebuilt them, I was careful to set the float height. Before I pull the
> carbs to check/adjust, does anyone have any suggestions on what might be
> causing this?
>
> Thanks, Joel Justin...
> 1954 TR2
> 1958 10 Estate
> 1960 TR3A
> 1961 TR4
> 1965 2000
> 1971 GT6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">Carb diaphragms?=C2=A0=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><=
div dir=3D"auto">90% of carb problems are electric, and 90% of ignition pro=
blems are fuel related.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=
Step back, take a breather, and check the basics.=C2=A0 Got compression?=C2=
=A0 Got sufficient fuel delivery?=C2=A0 Got spark at the right time?</div><=
/div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">O=
n Fri, Aug 27, 2021, 15:10 Joel Justin <<a href=3D"mailto:j_bar_j@hotmai=
l.com">j_bar_j@hotmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gma=
il_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-lef=
t:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Hi everyone. This is my first time posting a question. I've got a 1965 =
Triumph 2000 Mk1 Saloon. The engine is basically a GT6 2 liter with dual St=
romberg CD150 carbs. I have a starting issue and I'd like to tap into t=
he wisdom of this group. When I first go
to start the car, I give it a little choke, pump the accelerator once or t=
wice and leave it at about half throttle, and turn the key. The car always =
starts right up, even if it's been sitting for a month. But if I pull i=
t out into the driveway, and turn it
off (or stall it =F0=9F=98=89), then try to restart it, it struggles. It c=
ranks and cranks with the RPMs increasing like it's thinking about star=
ting, and sometimes it does, but others, it takes several cycles of that be=
fore it starts. The warmer the engine, the harder
it is to restart. If I let it cool for say a half hour, it starts right up=
again. The carbs were rebuilt about a year ago (this happened before and a=
fter the rebuild). I've replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an elect=
ric one thinking it might be a weak
fuel pump, but that didn't solve it. I improved my grounding to ensure=
I wasn't stealing coil voltage for the starter, and I even replaced th=
e starter with a high-torque version to get a higher spin rate. None of thi=
s helped. I thought vapor lock might be
the issue (I also installed a head shield for the carbs), but it happens w=
hen it's cold too. The only thing left I can think of is that the carbs=
are flooding. But when I rebuilt them, I was careful to set the float heig=
ht. Before I pull the carbs to check/adjust,
does anyone have any suggestions on what might be causing this?</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Thanks, Joel Justin...</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1954 TR2</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1958 10 Estate</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1960 TR3A</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1961 TR4</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1965 2000</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1971 GT6</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
</div>
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</blockquote></div>
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