...kinda' though they were making them again....
item #21
https://www.angloparts.com/en/catalogues/group/2865
prt# 215754
http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-brakes-disc-front-and-drum-rear-front-fitted-from-commission-no-ke12389kf12390-rear-fitted-from-commission-no-ke/kf20000
ptegler
On 3/8/2015 11:57 PM, Joao Simoes wrote:
> Hi, thanks for the advice. Interestingly, my GT6 has the stock brake discs in
> front and apparently it sat for a while so it was pretty rusty, I removed the
> rust and will see how it does. But the the issue I have is the rear drums no
> longer being available.
>
> On Mar 8, 2015, at 9:07 PM, ptegler <ptegler@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> sorry...hit send to quick....
>> I'd suggest staying away from drilled rotors. They have been known to crack
>> as the hole create stress fractures post heat cycling.
>> dippled and slotted rotors do help gasses escape the gap between shoe and
>> rotor surface.
>> You to to note also that when people talk about how good brakes are...it's
>> not the normal road use issues.... but brake fade when HOT.
>> Big brakes do help (larger surface contact areas) but unless you're hard on
>> brakes, or auto-x or race.... as decent set of semi metallic shoes work fine
>> and miminize the dusting of the wheels from brake dust, as well as work
>> better than when warmed up.
>> Bu the biggest issue of all and I find interesting is people commenting on
>> brakes that do/don't work right...when they were not bedded in properly.
>> Unless you properly bed in new pads on clean drum/disk surfaces.... no
>> brakes really work as well as they could/should. The differences are quite
>> amazing.
>> yes..personally I like the slotted/dimples rotors. If they have a 'name' on
>> them, you're usually paying more for that then the units themselves.
>> Good parts can be had for good prices...just got think and look around.
>>
>> happy parts hunting
>>
>> ptegler
>>
>> On 3/8/2015 9:58 AM, Joao Simoes wrote:
>>> Hi folks.
>>>
>>> I have been noticing that apparently there is a shortage of new rear brake
>>> drums and original wheel cylinders for a mk3 GT6. I either find 'non
>>> available' as far as the drums or for the rear wheel cylinders, a smaller
>>> diameter being the only available ones.
>>> Any experiences here? I will try to see if rebuild kits are available on
>>> the cylinders and may have to reuse my drums, which are sort of at the max
>>> diameter limit.
>>>
>>> Also, what's the scoop on the Gt6's brakes? Are stock ones good? My car has
>>> a booster, is it really necessary because the Spitfire never had one and it
>>> seems to stop well.
>>>
>>> Are those upgraded discs, like EBC and others really any better? Or are
>>> they just cool looking, which will it matter to me because I am using the
>>> stock wheels, so you can barely see the discs anyway.
>>>
>>> Take care,
>>>
>>> Joao
>>>
>>> On Mar 6, 2015, at 9:32 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> So I started to replace my broken TR4A IRS speedometer cable and it seems
>>>> the break was just inside the drive on the transmission. There aren't any
>>>> remains of the speedometer cable sticking out of the drive so I need to
>>>> pick the cable remains out of the drive somehow. Is it possible to remove
>>>> the drive gear from the transmission? I was hoping I could remove the
>>>> drive and at least not have to fish out the broken cable stub laying on
>>>> the cold garage floor.
>>>> If I can't easily remove the drive, has anybody "been there, done that"?
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Dave Connitt
>>>> 1968 TR4A IRS
>>>> http://www.davestr4a.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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>>>
>>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net
>>> **
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>> --
>> Paul Tegler ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com
>
--
Paul Tegler ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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