Hi, thanks for the advice. Interestingly, my GT6 has the stock brake discs in
front and apparently it sat for a while so it was pretty rusty, I removed the
rust and will see how it does. But the the issue I have is the rear drums no
longer being available.
On Mar 8, 2015, at 9:07 PM, ptegler <ptegler@verizon.net> wrote:
> sorry...hit send to quick....
> I'd suggest staying away from drilled rotors. They have been known to crack
> as the hole create stress fractures post heat cycling.
> dippled and slotted rotors do help gasses escape the gap between shoe and
> rotor surface.
> You to to note also that when people talk about how good brakes are...it's
> not the normal road use issues.... but brake fade when HOT.
> Big brakes do help (larger surface contact areas) but unless you're hard on
> brakes, or auto-x or race.... as decent set of semi metallic shoes work fine
> and miminize the dusting of the wheels from brake dust, as well as work
> better than when warmed up.
> Bu the biggest issue of all and I find interesting is people commenting on
> brakes that do/don't work right...when they were not bedded in properly.
> Unless you properly bed in new pads on clean drum/disk surfaces.... no brakes
> really work as well as they could/should. The differences are quite amazing.
> yes..personally I like the slotted/dimples rotors. If they have a 'name' on
> them, you're usually paying more for that then the units themselves.
> Good parts can be had for good prices...just got think and look around.
>
> happy parts hunting
>
> ptegler
>
> On 3/8/2015 9:58 AM, Joao Simoes wrote:
>> Hi folks.
>>
>> I have been noticing that apparently there is a shortage of new rear brake
>> drums and original wheel cylinders for a mk3 GT6. I either find 'non
>> available' as far as the drums or for the rear wheel cylinders, a smaller
>> diameter being the only available ones.
>> Any experiences here? I will try to see if rebuild kits are available on the
>> cylinders and may have to reuse my drums, which are sort of at the max
>> diameter limit.
>>
>> Also, what's the scoop on the Gt6's brakes? Are stock ones good? My car has
>> a booster, is it really necessary because the Spitfire never had one and it
>> seems to stop well.
>>
>> Are those upgraded discs, like EBC and others really any better? Or are they
>> just cool looking, which will it matter to me because I am using the stock
>> wheels, so you can barely see the discs anyway.
>>
>> Take care,
>>
>> Joao
>>
>> On Mar 6, 2015, at 9:32 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:
>>
>>> So I started to replace my broken TR4A IRS speedometer cable and it seems
>>> the break was just inside the drive on the transmission. There aren't any
>>> remains of the speedometer cable sticking out of the drive so I need to
>>> pick the cable remains out of the drive somehow. Is it possible to remove
>>> the drive gear from the transmission? I was hoping I could remove the drive
>>> and at least not have to fish out the broken cable stub laying on the cold
>>> garage floor.
>>> If I can't easily remove the drive, has anybody "been there, done that"?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Dave Connitt
>>> 1968 TR4A IRS
>>> http://www.davestr4a.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>>
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>>
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net
>> **
>>
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>
> --
> Paul Tegler ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com
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