I recommend the hardy-spicer no-zerk U-joints. They are the strongest things
around. You should be able to get them from a local parts supplier. The
clutch-and-ujoint specialist in town will know the ones. I believe that TR6
cars use a common size.
Pack them well with grease. The oil in the caps when you get them is just for
corrosion protection on the shelf.
--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C
package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: mrv8q@aim.com
> How involved is replacing the U-Joints, I've never done this and I'm not
> real experienced on working on cars? Anyone besides the big three to look at
> purchasing them from?
>
> Marty, I just replaced the 4 u-joints on my '74... not too difficult of a
>job.
>
>
> I'd recommend pulling the shoes, makes the job easier; I'd also check the
> condition/
>
> tightness of the 6 trailing arm studs, but not too tight!. I wound up getting
> Hardy-Spicer
>
> u-joints from TRF on sale, and I had a local drive-line shop put them on the
> half-shafts...
>
> what do I know about installing them? They charged a nominal fee; well worth
>it
> in my
>
> estimation. You should have the Bentley manual to walk you thru this. Get new
> boot covers
>
> and gaiters as well.
>
>
>
>
> Now, as far as the u-joints on the driveshaft .....
>
>
>
>
> Best, Kevin Browne
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