Bob:
Sounds like me; I started out installing seat belt mounts that for some reason
did not exist on my TR250. I had the rear wheels off to allow install of the
backing plates & decided to check my axle fittings, etc. I had the rear of the
car up high on jack stands & the next morning had a puddle of hypoid under the
diff. Leaked from front pinion, so out came the rear. Note, that is quite
heavy & awkward, my wife helped me drop it onto two 2x4's & ramped it down to
the floor. wheel, I had one lower mount cracked. The thin portion of the
steel that the stud passes through. The DPO had poorly welded it & it did not
hold. I am planning on sliding a very large shock bushing washer from my land
cruiser over the stud & welding it to the bottom of the lower mount. Should
work just fine.
p.s. I also found a nice Ansa for the car & while the diff was out, am
replacing the f&r prop. shaft u joints, axles joint conditions still to be
determined.
By the way, replacing the front pinion seal is quite easy, I actually replaced
the stub axle seals while I was in there & am planning on installing a drain
plug in the diff.
--
Gary J. Hamilton
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> Ok.... as part of my shipwright disease as I go the TBI conversion, I've
> removed the whole exhaust system. And for a 9 year old stock steel system it
> looks real good! Anyway.... this gives me a good look at the diff and in
> checking the diff bushings, I have one that is bent. Actually, either the
> stud/bolt or the housing is bent. So my question is: is that a welded in
> stud or a bolt that I can remove? I'd like to replace the bushings but if
> it's a welded in stud I guess I'd have to drop the whole diff. Is that
> correct? Any cautions?
>
> Anyone recommend a particular bushing over another i.e. VB vs Moss vs TRF?
>
> Thanks as always
>
> Bob
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 (TBI conversion in the works)
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>
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