> Following the loss of the starter drive nut and drive spring
> (which punched
> out two half-dollar sized holes in the top of the bellhousing),
> I've pulled my
> gearbox and clutch to assess the damage and clean out bits and
> pieces left
> behind. Look as though things will be fine once I get a complete
> starter
> back together.
Check carefully for any signs of cracks around those holes. I had the exact
same thing many years ago except I didn't pull the transmission out, just
stuffed another starter in. A crack started where the spring had punched
through the bellhousing, and eventually ran all around the mounting flange,
ruining the transmission housing.
> I'm now wondering if, "while I'm in there", now is a good time to
> replace
> the original-type rear oil seal on the engine. My question: Can
> the rear oil
> seal be replaced by pulling the flywheel and WITHOUT dropping the
> crankshaft
> and using the mandrell centering tool?
I've never tried it, but I don't see any reason you couldn't. You'll have
to roll the upper half into place, then measure somehow to set the clearance
to the crank. Side-to-side can be with feeler gauges, but up and down will
have to be something else. Perhaps you can check the seal position relative
to the crank, first with it touching the crank and then calculate the right
position from there. The bottom half can probably be done with Plasti-gage.
Randall
|