> Hmm, I may have found a problem. I can turn the fan about 3/8"
> and it has a
> vertical movement of about 3/16".
...
> Well this one really has got me looking around. The main crank
> bolt through
> the hub was finger tight!
If there was that much play at the fan, but it's not between the fan and the
extension, then something more is wrong than just a loose main bolt. Either
the bolts between the extension and the hub are loose, or the hub is loose
on the end of the crank. It should be a very snug fit on the crank nose,
and there should be a Woodruff key that keeps it from turning at all. If
these conditions are not met, it _will_ work loose.
My current engine has this problem, even after replacing the hub it was
still loose on the crank nose and the bolt would eventually back out. I
used Loctite "circular parts mount" to put it back on, it's held up well for
quite a few years now. Had to use a puller to get it off when the tensioner
broke, but it wasn't too hard.
> Got the chain cover off and see that even if I put the tensioner in the
> right place pressing against the chain there is still slack on
> the opposite
> side of the chain. How much slack is normal with and without the
> tensioner?
The slack on the other side will go away as soon as you turn the crank in
the forward direction. IOW, the tensioner is not nearly strong enough to
turn either shaft, to move the slack from one side to the other. It's
already on the side that is slack in normal operation, there will be no
slack on the other side.
> The crank has a little rotational slack in it, not sure how much.
> Enough to
> feel but not to see movement.
That would be the clearance in the rod bearings. At any position other than
TDC, it shouldn't be detectable. Right at TDC, a very small amount is
normal.
Randall
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