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Re: Re: TR3 Clutch

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Re: TR3 Clutch
From: Easton Family <eastonfamily@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 23:36:59 -0700
Cc: <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>, <CarlSereda@aol.com>, <anabil@caltel.com>, <mikek@wanadoo.fr>
User-agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Greetings again,

Thank you to Mike , Randall , Carl and Bill who replied to my clutch problem
question.  I'm still working on a solution.

Carl asked where I bought the rebuild kit for the master cylinder.  I got
the kit from The Roadster Factory and it's a Girling (actually Lucas) part.
The master cylinder doesn't appear to be leaking externally.

Mike, who's 1960 TR3A has the slave cylinder to the rear of the bracket,
asked which hole in the cross shaft lever arm was I using for the push-rod.
I'm using the middle hole.

Randall says the longer slave on the later TR3 and all TR3A/B should be
mounted with the ears to the front of the bracket.

I've installed the slave cylinder to the front of the bracket and bled it.
I cant get much less than .25" of free play and still have the push rod
threaded into the clevis fork.  Also, I broke the return spring in the
process and have replaced it temporarily with a hardware store spring that's
not strong enough to return the piston all the way.

I lowered the car back to the floor and started the engine to see if the
clutch would work at all and to my surprise it disengages completely and
engages at about half pedal travel.  I'm not sure that this solves or proves
anything because with the weak return spring, all of the free play at the
slave cylinder would be gone as the clutch operates (I think).

Anyway, when the engine warmed up the clutch started dragging again.  The
only difference is that now pumping the pedal makes it drag less and once in
a while it won't drag at all.  I suspect that this is because of the weaker
slave cylinder push rod return spring.

I agree with Randall that I have multiple problems.  (Don't we all? :-))
I'm going to overhaul the master cylinder and slave cylinder again in hopes
of solving the heat related clutch dragging, but I think there is also a
problem in the clutch fork taper pin.

I'd like to try to reduce the free play in the slave linkage as a temporary
work around and take my chances with the possible broken pin until after
Summer.  Wouldn't moving the slave cylinder to the front of the bracket have
the same effect as making a longer push rod?

Well, again I apologize for another long winded question.  Thanks for the
good advice.  I'll let everyone know what, if anything, the master and slave
cylinders reveal.

Thanks again,
Dave Easton
1959 TR3A

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