Bud, I asked the same question recently regarding a front supsension
rebuild. I have gotten some of the same replies you got, but I was also
warned that the problem might be a bent vertical link, and particularly
if you have poly upper bushings. My suggestion would be to first
relieve the spring pressure by carefully jacking under the spring pan,
then see if the link is still stiff. I tried this, but because I dont
have an engine in right now, I cant get quite enough downward pressure
and therefore the whole car is being raised up. But it did relieve a
little of the pressure and it seemed to help, but still fairly stiff to
turn. To convince me that its the ball joint, I would either separate
the ball joint (ugghhh), or remove or perhaps loosen the two bolts
holding the ball joint to the upper arms. You should be able to do this
while the car is jacked up under the spring pan, and for safety the
shock should be in place. I would jack up the car, rest the front
chassis on jack stands, remove one of the wheels, loosen but dont remove
the ball joint bolts, then jack up under the spring pan until spring
pressure is relieved off the ball joint and try removing the ball joint
bolts. This is the only thing keeping the link from turning other than
the trunnion.
John - 1976 TR6
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 14:40:03 EDT
From: Aledotr6@aol.com
Subject: TR6 Front suspension stiffness
Hello list,
I installed one side of the front suspension on a bare chassis (no tub,
engine, etc.), working towards a rolling chassis. Everything seemed OK
until
I released the tension on the spring compressor. Now the vertical link
is
extremely difficult to rotate. The ball joint seems to be binding. Its
rubber
gaiter is compressed between the vertical link and the ball joint. Is
this
normal until I've gotten the chassis laden with the engine and tub? I
tightened everything to spec. Should evevything be loosened until fully
laden?
Thanks in advance,
Bud Trussell
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